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Author Topic: Shocks and Struts  (Read 11787 times)
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Newfie Hauler
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« Reply #15 on: July 11, 2005, 09:49:20 AM »

TekInDaBurg,

The biggest issue really appears to be where to come up with the special tools that are required for the front strut removal and making sure that you have a good quality jack and jack stands to properly support the vehicle (also helps to know where to support it).

Newfie
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TekInDaBurg
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« Reply #16 on: July 11, 2005, 10:08:22 AM »

newfie,

In my case, my front struts appear to be fine.  It appears to be a blown rear shock for me.  Without the load leveling system, I would guess that I can just use jacks to assist in the removal of the shock.  I torque wrench would be the only special tool that would be needed.  
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Newfie Hauler
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« Reply #17 on: July 11, 2005, 10:20:01 AM »

TekInDaBurg,

I should think it would be pretty straightforward.  A quality torque wrench should be available through any tool outlet.  Probably the easiest place to find one might be a Craftsman through Sears.  I would avoid the cheap ones as they are probably not that accurate and they do not adjust really well.  Just make sure that it is rated for the torque settings that you are trying to achieve and that you have the mating sockets and extensions needed.  Probably for this job 1/2 inch drive will work the best.

Newfie
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ilikeeggs
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« Reply #18 on: April 25, 2009, 09:24:48 AM »

I replaced the struts on my FWD about a month ago.  If you have a set of wrenches, a torx bit, jack, and jack stands you can rent a spring compressor from Auto Zone or Advance Auto and borrow a torque wrench from a chum.  Don't be put off by the apparent wordiness of the service manual instructions, most of what you would be doing is loosening and tightening bolts though you must be careful when compressing the springs.  There are some decent YouTube videos covering strut replacement.  Seeing it done rather than reading about it may help you decide if you want to do it yourself or take it to the shop. 
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ilikeeggs
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« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2009, 12:42:56 PM »

and then today I looked at the date of the post prior to my last and noticed this thread is very old
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Newfie Hauler
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« Reply #20 on: April 26, 2009, 03:06:00 PM »

Great tip for borrowing those tools!  I suspect you can rent a torque wrench there as well.  Also some rental centers will rent tools as well.

Just a caution though on the YouTube videos, they are only as good as the person that produces them and only as accurate as their source of information.  It helps to have multiple sources, so they might be a good supplement to the factory service manual.  Just be very wary of shortcuts, like reusing bolts when the manuals says to replace them, etc.  The upside is the videos can show you detail that is impossible in printed format.
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ilikeeggs
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« Reply #21 on: April 26, 2009, 11:32:11 PM »

Well, at least I am not alone.
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ilikeeggs
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« Reply #22 on: April 26, 2009, 11:33:08 PM »

 -_-
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SARtek02
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« Reply #23 on: May 20, 2009, 02:01:28 AM »

I to had change my struts om me TEK.    Word of warning though.    Do not use a vice to compress
the spring like I did all because I did not want to buy a spring compressor.  That sucker flew in all
directions.   :laugh:

I bought mine from Auto zone for $35.00.  To rent was $50.00
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Capn Dave
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« Reply #24 on: May 21, 2009, 09:11:02 PM »

A quick question for Newfie Hauler. I now have over 52000 on the Tek and I am noticing some wallowing and a much harsher ride. I believe I am coming close to a strut and shock replacement. As you, I think I will do the rears and have the fronts done by my mechanic. But my question is, what brand of aftermarket shocks and struts would you recommend? I do have the air load leveler system. I would like a nice handling ride but with some cush. I'm not getting any younger.
Thanks, Its been a long while since I've posted.
Capn Dave
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Dd
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« Reply #25 on: September 24, 2016, 07:06:55 PM »

I know this is an old topic but what the heck ain't here.   Wink 

I can confirm that you can take off the passenger side strut without removing the windshield wiper motor. The furthest back bolt can be accessed ok from the back side--over the alternator.  I did remove two pieces of the wiper arm linkage to get them out of the way.  The only major things I need to move were the fuse block and the cruise control module.  The only real toughy was getting the lower strut bolts to line up on the drivers side once the top was in.......

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