Welcome to the site! Take a minute to register and join us. It's FREE! (and fun)
The ORIGINAL Aztek Fan Club Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Always stay logged in

Login with username, password and session length
Home Gallery Help Login Register
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Lifting My Aztek  (Read 26853 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Guyver280z
Advanced User
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


« Reply #30 on: December 16, 2009, 10:29:29 AM »

with the front of our azteks you can only get a wheel thats 1.5" bigger in diameter to fit... as with the lift, my back has been an inch higher for a while now, its the front thats complicated.. i was able to to put a 5/8" maximum spacer in between the engine cradle and the body with no problems... its just figuring out a spacer for the top of the stuts thats going to suck... and as of late i've been way to busy at work to figure something out... but i'll keep you posted   

Dude, do you have some photos of how you did the front?? so, a 5/8" spacer in all the engine cradle mounts was good?? I want to give a 1" spacer in the front a try.

Also, this tires I fitted are too big and they were rubbing on the struts coil plate but I managed to bend them a bit up out of the tire's way, also cut some of the plastic fender liner and bent a metal edge inside the wheel well so the tires clear pretty nice, there's a minor rub in the front of the fender liner only when I turn so I hope a 1" lift will be enough to clear that.

Also, I been thinking of replacing the front shocks with an adjustable Coil Over setup which can be "easily" done on our trucks. I found this great write up on how to convert a strut into a coilover. I'm thinking of fitting Rancho RS9000 X Adjustable shocks.

1. Disassemble the strut. Drain all fluid and remove all internal parts. Disassembling the strut allows you to grind and weld on the strut tube without damaging the internal parts or risking the possibility of the strut exploding from the heat generated by those processes.

2. Remove stock spring perch. I cut the perch from the outer edge to the strut tube in two places. Then I carefully ground off the weld bead that holds the perch to the strut tube. Once the bead had been ground down, the two perch halves came off easily.



3. Machine spacers for threaded aluminum tube. In order to fit the threaded aluminum tube to the strut, spacers had to be fabricated. I machined these on a lathe. Material was simply mild steel tube. The top spacer serves only to locate the aluminum tube with respect to the strut tube. The bottom spacer locates the aluminum tube and positions it vertically on the strut tube.
(You can buy this at www.ground-control-store.com)



4. Weld spacers on to strut tube. I cut the spacers in half and welded them to the strut tube. I positioned the spacers so the top of the aluminum tube would be flush with the top of the strut tube. I was particularly careful about making sure the weld on the bottom spacer had good penetration and went all the way around the spacer since it would be taking transferring all of the load from the aluminum perch & tube to the strut tube. The top spacer wasn't as important as it would only be taking loads normal (perpendicular) to it, effectively pressing it against the strut tube.



5. Install threaded aluminum tube and perch. Before I could install the aluminum tube, I had to do some finish grinding on the spacers to make the aluminum tube fit properly. I made sure it was a snug fit so it wouldn't rattle while driving down the road.





6. Machine upper spring perch. The Honda I pulled the coil-overs off of had an "interesting" setup where the upper end of the spring actually perched on the body, with a rubber pad to keep it from rattling around. My suspension is quite a bit different, so I had to machine some upper spring perches. I designed it to use the stock Fiat upper mounting hardware. Material is 6061-T6 aluminum.



7. Install spring, upper perch, and mounting hardware. The fiber washers that the whole top mount assembleis pivot on were cracked as usual. I replaced them with a custom unit designed by Mark Plaia, which uses a roller bearing. The unit would fit a stock strut assembly as well and it really makes the steering smooth and responsive!








So this should work for both interested in Lifting and Lowering an Aztek also fitting bigger wheels and you can adjust the height at least of the front suspension. For the rear I was thinking if our rear shocks are Air Equipped could we just play with the level sensor to raise and lower the back??
Logged
97drexelgrad
2006, 2007, 2008 International Aztek Rally Organizer, Paid Member,
Global Moderator
Lifetime Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6233



« Reply #31 on: December 16, 2009, 11:44:18 AM »

Looks good Guyver280z

  I had added rear air shocks to my ol' Tek, for when I towed my camper.  Sometimes when not towing, I would inflate the shocks just to raise the rear.  Just be careful, because it greatly affected the manuverability and handling of the Tek. I had 20" rims with 245/40/zr20 tires and it still was a bit hairy when lifted. 
Logged

Brian, NJ
Current owner of 2011 GMC Sierra SLE Crew Cab 4x4 6.2 l
403hp 420tq

Former owner of a 2003 Aztek Yellow, McCullough HID 6000k Headlights, Xentec HID 3000K Yellow Fog Lights, LEDS on all 4 Markers and Reverse Lights, Recon Strobe Lighting, Pioneer 10 speaker stereo, Infinity BassLink2 Sub, Precision Interface Electronics GM12-AUX, XM Roady XT, Helo Tease Rims with General Exclaim 245/40ZR20 tires, EBC Dimpled & Slotted Front Rotors, EBC Yellowstuff Pads, K&N Air Filter, Remote Start, kids car seat, Custom Dual Exhaust , Recon Big Rig Amber Running / Signal LED Lights, Side mirror LED Signal Lights, Line of Fire and Ice Brake Light, Monro Air Shocks in Rear, B&M Transmission Cooler, Garmin NUVI 350 GPS,  LEDs everywhere, Rear camera with night vision and 7 inch color monitor, GM Hood Deflector, Diehard Platinum Battery, American Flag / Bald Eagle on Rear Window, Fleetwood Camper,with LEDs and camera also, towed behind Tek ,
 2006, 2007, 2008 International Aztek Rally Organizer.  Email me @ 97drexelgrad@aztekfanclub.com
Guyver280z
Advanced User
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


« Reply #32 on: December 16, 2009, 12:04:32 PM »

Looks good Guyver280z

  I had added rear air shocks to my ol' Tek, for when I towed my camper.  Sometimes when not towing, I would inflate the shocks just to raise the rear.  Just be careful, because it greatly affected the manuverability and handling of the Tek. I had 20" rims with 245/40/zr20 tires and it still was a bit hairy when lifted. 

Yeah, I'm aware of that, I might get a pair of 1.5" spacers on the back to compensate the lift. I still dont know if I can do spacers in the front, the wheel wells are very small and a spacer will increase the turn diameter.... so I'll see what can be done.
Logged
97drexelgrad
2006, 2007, 2008 International Aztek Rally Organizer, Paid Member,
Global Moderator
Lifetime Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6233



« Reply #33 on: December 16, 2009, 12:14:02 PM »

I'm sitting here trying to figure out what is the biggest set of tires I can fit on my Sierra without putting a lift on, or maybe just a small 2" body lift.  If I could keep the 17 OEM wheels, I will. The truck has a bit of lift as it is, so I'd rather not.

She's a bit dirty now too... sigh

Logged

Brian, NJ
Current owner of 2011 GMC Sierra SLE Crew Cab 4x4 6.2 l
403hp 420tq

Former owner of a 2003 Aztek Yellow, McCullough HID 6000k Headlights, Xentec HID 3000K Yellow Fog Lights, LEDS on all 4 Markers and Reverse Lights, Recon Strobe Lighting, Pioneer 10 speaker stereo, Infinity BassLink2 Sub, Precision Interface Electronics GM12-AUX, XM Roady XT, Helo Tease Rims with General Exclaim 245/40ZR20 tires, EBC Dimpled & Slotted Front Rotors, EBC Yellowstuff Pads, K&N Air Filter, Remote Start, kids car seat, Custom Dual Exhaust , Recon Big Rig Amber Running / Signal LED Lights, Side mirror LED Signal Lights, Line of Fire and Ice Brake Light, Monro Air Shocks in Rear, B&M Transmission Cooler, Garmin NUVI 350 GPS,  LEDs everywhere, Rear camera with night vision and 7 inch color monitor, GM Hood Deflector, Diehard Platinum Battery, American Flag / Bald Eagle on Rear Window, Fleetwood Camper,with LEDs and camera also, towed behind Tek ,
 2006, 2007, 2008 International Aztek Rally Organizer.  Email me @ 97drexelgrad@aztekfanclub.com
Guyver280z
Advanced User
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


« Reply #34 on: December 16, 2009, 12:23:12 PM »

That looks like it could easily take a 36" tire. :wacko:
Logged
travisl_2727
100 Club Members
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 113


« Reply #35 on: December 16, 2009, 08:08:57 PM »

i dropped the engine and tranny cradle 5/8" with using the same bolts... any farther you need longer bolts that are really hard to find... when i dropped the engine cradle all the hoses, lines and engine mounts had plenty of flex, 2" might be on the edge of too much... im just waiting for work to slow down so i can build a coil tower spacer... the bolts at the top of the tower angle outward so you cant do just a straight spacer...

on the rear i think you could lift it more with bigger spacers just fine cause the driveline pivoted in the middle, the only hold back in the back is that the top of the shocks still mount to the bod, so longer shocks would probably be needed...
Logged

2002 Pontiac Aztek AWD
Guyver280z
Advanced User
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


« Reply #36 on: December 17, 2009, 10:26:41 AM »

i dropped the engine and tranny cradle 5/8" with using the same bolts... any farther you need longer bolts that are really hard to find... when i dropped the engine cradle all the hoses, lines and engine mounts had plenty of flex, 2" might be on the edge of too much... im just waiting for work to slow down so i can build a coil tower spacer... the bolts at the top of the tower angle outward so you cant do just a straight spacer...

on the rear i think you could lift it more with bigger spacers just fine cause the driveline pivoted in the middle, the only hold back in the back is that the top of the shocks still mount to the bod, so longer shocks would probably be needed...

The steering rack is bolted to the firewall right?? Did you added any rubber insulation between the spacers and the body/suspension??  I'll need to find that 2" longer bolt, sounds doable, specially if I can make those coilovers with an adjustable Rancho RS9000 shock in there.

For the shock towers, what about individual spacers for each bolt?? like a  1" diam spacer on each top bolt??? Do you think it might be enough to withstand the shock stress?? or might as well make a one piece solid spacer??

The rear shocks are pretty small right?? So I bet there's gotta be a similar shock 1" or 2" longer.

 :wacko:
Logged
travisl_2727
100 Club Members
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 113


« Reply #37 on: December 18, 2009, 12:14:04 AM »

The steering rack is bolted to the firewall right?? Did you added any rubber insulation between the spacers and the body/suspension??  I'll need to find that 2" longer bolt, sounds doable, specially if I can make those coilovers with an adjustable Rancho RS9000 shock in there.

For the shock towers, what about individual spacers for each bolt?? like a  1" diam spacer on each top bolt??? Do you think it might be enough to withstand the shock stress?? or might as well make a one piece solid spacer??

The rear shocks are pretty small right?? So I bet there's gotta be a similar shock 1" or 2" longer.

 :wacko:

yeah the steering rack was no problem for me... and i just put washers inbetween the cradle and body, theres already like a rubber bushing spacer in there already...

i already tried individual spacers but the top of the bolts just lean out too far... im going to build a spacer like this

and the rear shock should be real easy to replace...
Logged

2002 Pontiac Aztek AWD
Guyver280z
Advanced User
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


« Reply #38 on: December 18, 2009, 09:13:22 AM »

The steering rack is bolted to the firewall right?? Did you added any rubber insulation between the spacers and the body/suspension??  I'll need to find that 2" longer bolt, sounds doable, specially if I can make those coilovers with an adjustable Rancho RS9000 shock in there.

For the shock towers, what about individual spacers for each bolt?? like a  1" diam spacer on each top bolt??? Do you think it might be enough to withstand the shock stress?? or might as well make a one piece solid spacer??

The rear shocks are pretty small right?? So I bet there's gotta be a similar shock 1" or 2" longer.

 :wacko:

yeah the steering rack was no problem for me... and i just put washers inbetween the cradle and body, theres already like a rubber bushing spacer in there already...

i already tried individual spacers but the top of the bolts just lean out too far... im going to build a spacer like this

and the rear shock should be real easy to replace...

Oh cool, if you do build them would you consider building an extra 2" lift set??  Wink
Logged
travisl_2727
100 Club Members
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 113


« Reply #39 on: December 18, 2009, 10:04:49 AM »

yeah i plan on designing them in a fashion that would be easy to reproduce
Logged

2002 Pontiac Aztek AWD
Guyver280z
Advanced User
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


« Reply #40 on: December 28, 2009, 11:02:58 AM »

Some of the first snowboarding trip on the Tek.

So far I love it, it still drives great at 75/80mph on the highway... but the tires are just a bit too loud. I'm going to try some dynamat on the wheel wheels and floor to make the ride a bit more quiet. I'll be getting All Terrain instead of Mud Terrain next time for sure  Tongue



Logged
Aztek-Knight
Assistant Administrator
Lifetime Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3110



WWW
« Reply #41 on: December 28, 2009, 03:33:23 PM »

Nice. The Tundercats logo is holding up too to the cold/road goo.
Logged


One Aztek Can Make A Difference.
Anubis
Intermediate User
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 47


« Reply #42 on: December 29, 2009, 10:03:08 AM »

Looks Cool!

How is the clearence now?  Any rubbing?
Logged

2003 Grey AWD Aztek
Guyver280z
Advanced User
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


« Reply #43 on: December 29, 2009, 10:09:21 AM »

Looks Cool!

How is the clearence now?  Any rubbing?

Only when I turn while backing up there's a slight rubbing on the fender liner but it's not really a big deal. Other than that seems fine  Grin
Logged
Guyver280z
Advanced User
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 89


« Reply #44 on: January 28, 2010, 11:23:10 AM »

I love my Aztek!!! Trip after trip it delivers like nothing else.





Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines
Theme Underground Yellow