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Author Topic: Did front brake job today!  (Read 21215 times)
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2k1Aztek
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« on: March 21, 2005, 06:35:42 PM »

I did my brakes today by myself.  Man, that was the easiest brake job I ever did!!  One question - does GM put thread lock on the caliper bolts???  I noticed that it had pink threadlock at the end of the thread.  I had to get a old metal tube around the handle of the rachet to persuade those darn things off.   That was the hardest part about the job!   Tongue  
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Newfie Hauler
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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2005, 06:23:34 AM »

2k1Aztek,

I am not aware of any threadlockers being used on those parts, but I will check.  If they do, I will be able to tell you what type (yes there is more than one).

I can also provide you with bolt touques, if needed.

Newfie
« Last Edit: March 22, 2005, 06:24:21 AM by Newfie Hauler » Logged
Kinger905
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« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2005, 06:41:58 AM »

I completed my front brakes on Sunday,  I think you are right about the thread locker.  Took me 30mins and a pipe around the ratchet to get my caliper bolts loose.

I noticed blue as well on the bolts after I removed them.  I agree it was a very quick and easy job once you got the bolts free.

Next will be the rear drums,  I have never replaced drum shoes before,  is it a lot harder than disc?

Also,  I rmember there being a post regarding the wheel bearing,  someone said that if you can repair brakes you could fix wheel bearing yourself as well,  I didn't actually take much time to look but what does it look like?

Thanks

Jay
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Newfie Hauler
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« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2005, 07:06:31 AM »

Kinger905,

The wheel/hub bearing is what the rotor or drum attach to.  It is bolted to the spindle (I believe with three bolts, which GM requires you replace, along with the drive shaft nut as well).  I believe those bolts are torque to yield, meaning that they stretch once the proper torque is achieve and thus once stretched, they cannot be reused (that is a really brief description).

Newfie
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nemesis21
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« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2005, 08:08:36 AM »

I use my fiance's dad's neumatic drill. It works like a charm.
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Kinger905
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« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2005, 04:02:07 PM »

Well the wheel bearing looks very easy to replace then,  I guess they were staring  :huh: me in the face the entire job,  lol  :lol:

I like doing things myself as I have friends and family with years of knowledge on cars.  I just never have any info on stuff like repair items.

Hey Newfie,

got any good sites for basic repairs with info on how to?  or stuff like that?

Thanks

Jay Smiley  
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« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2005, 04:13:35 PM »

He will at the rally!!

Jack
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Jack Egan
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JediSkipdogg
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« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2005, 04:28:33 PM »

Yes, at the Rally Newfie and myself will be showing alot of basic repairs and maintenance.  We will also have manuals of all the repairs we show.

As for more complicated repairs like wheel bearings and such, the only place you can get them is in the service manuals and I think those run around $400 each.

And Jack, I think you are pushing the Rally a little too much.  
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djmoose
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« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2005, 10:53:20 PM »

When you say you did your breaks...you mean you just replaced the pads?

I'd really like to try to do that myself this year...but really have no idea how.
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Kinger905
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« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2005, 05:48:38 AM »

I replaced both front brake pads and rotors.  One you get the caliper off, the rotor just slides on and off.
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Newfie Hauler
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« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2005, 06:26:43 AM »

2k1Aztek,

You did not mention if you were just replacing the pads or if you also removed the rotors as well.  I did find that for both procedures on the FRONT DISC BRAKES ONLY they do require threadlocker for both the caliper bolts and the caliper bracket bolts.  If you removed the rotor, you will have to have removed the caliper brackets.  Now, on the bracket, you not only have to overcome the threadlocker, you also have to overcome the torque on the bolt.  The caliper bolts and the caliper bracket bolts have two different torque values - this is crucial because if you overtighten the caliper bolts they will snap and you will have real fun removing them and if you undertighten the caliper bracket bolts there is a chance they will vibrate loose and you will loose the caliper (not a good thing).

The information that I have mind you comes from a 2002 Aztek Service Manual, so these torque settings and threadlocker part numbers may have changed (I believe that there is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) on brakes and I will see if I can get a copy of it and will post again to advise what I found.  So here is what I have in my manual:
Caliper Bolt (retains the caliper to the caliper bracket) Torque: 35 Nm (26 lb ft)
Caliper Bracket Torque (retains the caliper and caliper bracket to the spindle) Torque: 185 Nm (137 lb ft) - partially explains why it might have been so tough to remove.
Threadlocker (Used on both sets of bolts) GM Part # 12345493 (Canada Part # 10953488).  It is the RED threadlocker.  I believe that it is manufactured by Loctite and available at most reputable auto parts stores as Threadlocker 272.  The red is higher strength than the blue.  The downside is that it is tougher to remove a bolt with it on, but the upside is that it is less likely to vibrate loose.

Kinger 905 and some of the others:  I don't know of any repair site that contains the repair information.  You can order the Service Manuals new from Helm, Inc.  I don't recall what they retain for.  You may also find them on EBay, but beware of cheap imitations and preliminary manuals, as they are quite common on there.  The ones you will be looking for will not say preliminary anywhere on the cover and the cover will be a color other than white.  On the back it will most likely have a "Part Number like GMT/02-B-1 (Which indicates a 2002 B Car Manual - Aztek/Rendezvous and volume 1).  There are two on vehicle repair volumes (sold as a set) and two unit repair manuals (not essential unless you plan on rebuilding the transaxle or rear differential/transfer case).  I have all four volumes of the 2002 MY.

Regarding changing the pads, that is very easy as stated by others.  Personally, I would have the rotors checked with a micrometer to verify their condition and either have them turned or replace them, if needed.  Those measurements and the turning of the rotors are best left to a professsional as there is a lot to consider (lateral runout for example - if ignored you will have heavy brake pulsation even with new brake pads).

Sorry for the long winded post.  If anyone has any specific questions, you can email/PM me.  I don't mind and will try and help as best I can.

Newfie
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Karl
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« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2005, 07:51:25 AM »

While in the Navy, (years ago) we encountered a situation where we had to use blue Loctite on some fasteners inside a computer system for about six months. To remove these bolts for servicing and repair, Loctite advised us to heat the bolts. While warm, the Loctite became much less binding, and the bolts could be turned with little effort. I don't know it this would apply to the red Loctite.
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« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2005, 10:00:03 AM »

That's one of the advantages of having a brother that's a mechanic. All I need to do is say MIKEY my cars broken and the works done.

Jack
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Jack Egan
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Newfie Hauler
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« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2005, 11:13:43 AM »

Quote
While in the Navy, (years ago) we encountered a situation where we had to use blue Loctite on some fasteners inside a computer system for about six months. To remove these bolts for servicing and repair, Loctite advised us to heat the bolts. While warm, the Loctite became much less binding, and the bolts could be turned with little effort. I don't know it this would apply to the red Loctite.
That might work, but you have to be really careful not to heat up the brake fluid coming into the caliper and also keep the caliper cool so that it does not damage the internal seals on the pistons.  Part of the problem is access to the threads where that loctite is located.  It might be too tough to shield the caliper or the rotor from the heat.  I suppose too it might matter what you use to heat the bolt.
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macdaddy
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« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2005, 06:41:16 AM »

I have replaced 2 sets of pads on the rear and one set on the front of my 01 TEK.  Did not use thread lock when I put the system back together.  I have 113,000 miles on the beast and have not had a problem with the brakes.  Is it thread lock or anti-sieze?.  

As far as the rotors, they have never been resurfaced or replaced.  If you don't have any brake pulsation from a warped rotor and the brakes feel and operate good then why resurface.  The more material that is removed from the rotor the more likely it is to heat up quicker and warp.  My next set of pads I will be replacing the rotors as I am sure they are getting a little thim from use but that will probably be around 125K which is not bad.  I am sure they are probably $80 or $90 a piece for the good ones.    

I have been useing NAPA's premuim brand brake pads and they are excellent.  I got turned on the them when replacing my rear pads.  NAPA were the only ones other than GM carrying the pads for the rear disc setup.  They cost $60 but have a lifetime warranty which means when they wear out I take the old ones back and they give me a new set at no charge.  I have done this once already.  They do last a lot longer then the stock ones did.
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