Average cost if cv joint?
Welcome to the site! Take a minute to register and join us. It's FREE! (and fun)
The ORIGINAL Aztek Fan Club Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Always stay logged in

Login with username, password and session length
Home Gallery Help Login Register
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Average cost if cv joint?  (Read 1196 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
kristi84
Intermediate User
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 21



WWW
« on: November 23, 2016, 07:16:47 PM »

Hey guys,

What's the average price paid to replace a cv joint?  Not positive that is what is wrong but I hear a clicking noise when I turn the wheel to the right.  Just want to be prepared and have a general idea.  or if anyone else has any ideas? Only to the right and it doesn't affect steering,  hopefully it's a rock stuck :-)
Logged
Bill Salina
Paid Member
100 Club Members
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 240


2003 Gold FWD Aztek - aka "The Warthog"


« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2016, 04:43:57 PM »

These days it's probably better and cheaper to replace the whole axle shaft (aka half-shaft) than to replace just a CV joint.  You also get a new inner CV joint and new inner and outer CV boots that way.  Plus a warranty on the whole thing.

I've replaced my axle shafts with new ones from AdvanceAuto:

Passenger side is part number NCV10243 and cost $67.99 with no core and a lifetime warranty.

Driver side is part number NCV10238 and cost $70.99 with no core and a lifetime warranty.

To pull the shafts you will need three tools which you can borrow for FREE from any AutoZone (NOT AdvanceAuto):

1. Slide hammer axle  puller part number 27033 ($45)

2. OEM/FWD axle puller adapter part number 27058 ($20)  <-- crows foot adapter that reaches behind inner CV joint

3. OEM front wheel hub puller part number 27037 ($25)  <-- you only need to use this if your wheel hub won't release from the spindle.

You may not need the hub puller (it may come out without needing the puller) - I didn't need it on mine.

The prices are the security deposit on the tools.  You get the money back when you return the tools.  If you don't return them, you bought them (but if you are going to do that, get new ones, the loaners are usually a bit beat up).

You'll also need a torque wrench to tighten the axle nut to spec (I think it's 192 ft-lbs but ask around for the actual number).  You can borrow one from AutoZone too, but I don't have the part number.

If you are not mechanically inclined and/or you aren't able to do the job yourself, the dealer will get a lot more for doing it, and so will an indie shop.  I always do the work myself, so I don't know what they will charge, but you can bet that they will charge at least $200 for an axle and then they will charge you shop rate for the labor.   I'm guessing $300-350 to replace an axle.  Probably about the same to do a CV joint (but I'm just guessing).   Might be a lot higher.

When I've changed them, I removed the wheel hub assembly and that has given me enough lengthwise play to pull the axle out clear of the transmission.  Installing the new one is the reverse, inserting the end through the hub opening in the spindle and then inserting the other end into the transmission.   You slide the transmission end in with a bit of force and you will feel/hear a click as it snaps into place.  Pull on it to make sure it has snapped in.

Hope this helps!

Bird Dog




« Last Edit: November 28, 2016, 11:43:14 PM by Bill Salina » Logged

Bill (aka Bird Dog)
2003 Gold FWD Aztek "The Warthog"
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines
Theme Underground Yellow