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Author Topic: '04 aztek abs light on AWD disabled and has no power up hills  (Read 9978 times)
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Highmileageaztek
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« on: October 19, 2014, 04:09:17 PM »

I bought an '04 aztek a couple months back with 209k miles. I was unaware of how many issues it had.
Things I've already replaced:
Catalytic converter
Front struts
Both rear wheel bearings
Front brakes
Rear bushings
The check engine light comes on and off occasionally and the engine ticks and whines. I replaced the oil already and it did improve the performance slightly.
Issues I'm still having.
ABS light is on, and AWD is disabled.
I have to be very gentle with the pedal to make the car accelerate and if I slam on it the RPM's shoot down along with the speed (at around 25-30mph). The same thing happens up hills no matter how gentle I am but it happens so much worse. I was told it was an issue with the traction control and that replacing the wheel bearings would fix the issue. The wheel bearings helped a lot but it still is happening. Also, there's a rattling noise coming from what seems to be the rear end when the RPM's and speed shoot down. I'd really appreciate some advice, thanks.
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hardwaregrrl
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« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2014, 05:48:52 PM »

Man, that's a bummer.....   Sorry about all of the issues you're having.  More than likely with the ABS/AWD light, it could be the C305 or a bad speed sensor.  I'm fighting with one right now, trying to figure out which one is bad.  Look for the C305 thread, it's worth doing.  I had a multitude of electrical problems that went away as soon as the 305 was gone.  I have a tick in my motor as well.  I've got 140K on mine.  I was told it was noisey lifters and valves.  It's been like that since 30k.....
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teklvr1
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« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2014, 09:47:39 AM »

Hi All!
I am a newbie here bought my Tek about the end of Sept. and Absolutely Love it!! I bought it because 1. It was a great deal, and 2. because it was so unusual and One of a kind...just my kind of rig!! Grin Always like to have something that no one else has!! And No One around these parts has one!!
Anyho...Bought my '05 AWD Tek with 139,000 Aprox. miles on it new it needed tires...so after about a month finally broke down and got some...and have to say before continuing with story and question she ran like a Champ and Great Fuel mileage for an AWD and 6 cylinder...and Great handling!!
So, got new tires put on and within about 3 mi. after tires were mounted started to get a slight shimmy, vibration, and just felt different in handling...called dealer and they said that it could be that a weight could have fallen off, and if it continued to bring it back; well, I kind of got used to the handling of new tires and didn't think anything else about it.
O.k. on to the rest of the story, Now about two weeks after new tires the ABS and AWD Disable lights came on, checked on here and saw that that typically means that rear hub bearings are going out, or brakes, so I got on ebay and bought the hub bearings. Then about a week after The Lights came on it started do the deceleration thing with loss of power when pressing the gas pedal to gain speed quickly, and Way Worse when going uphills and shortly thereafter brakes started feeling mushy. So, I finally got to take it to my mechanic and he and his brother got to looking at brakes and I told them about the other things that it Could be and they asked me approximately When it started happening and I told them that Actually everything started AFTER tires were changed.
One of the brothers thought on that for a bit and came to the conclusion that it could Very possibly be that the Torque on the nuts were not all the same, and the other brother who has previously worked at tire shops, said you know? a lot of times when the guys put the tires back they don't check torque and just air wrench them on and call it good. So, they talked it over and figured that with all the sensors going crazy and the fact that brakes were feeling mushy(because of torque, tires would move in and out and make brakes feel that way)That that was the problem, so this week I am taking it back and we are going to jack it up and go through everything just to be sure and what im hoping is that if we go through and adjust torque that my Tek will be back in business.
Will report back with findings, and if anyone else has had this problem I would Welcome any feed back as now my Fiance thinks that I have bought a "piece of Crap" money black hole. Which im certain that it isn't.
Will state once again Love, Love, Love my Tek!!! Nicest most comfortable driving and riding "car" I have owned in Years!!!
Thank you for any input any of you can give!!
Teklvr1
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tt29mp
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« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2015, 11:12:07 PM »

I avoided buying the AWD version of this vehicle due to so many issues with the transmission. It could be that the AWD system is off/out of sync and the vehicle could be putting it self in limp home mode if it has one due to thinking that if all of the wheels are not syncing within the specified range that there will be damage to the car. You need to have that checked with dealership or a shop that specializing in AWD systems. Just don't leave it to anyone. The easiest way is to have someone use a scanner for AWD systems to get to the root cause.
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5tevebc
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« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2015, 11:51:34 PM »

The loss of power with acceleration, having to be "careful" about accelerating, problem going uphill, etc. sounds like a Throttle Position Sensor gone bad.  The engine literally doesn't know where your foot is on the gas, and you can get erratic behaviour like that.  Might be worth checking.
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2002 Tek, Black, full leather. AWD.  HUD, sunroof, rear audio, 10 speaker Premium, 6CD, dual climate, 17" factory rims, camping package, dual factory Aztek shoulder bags.
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« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2015, 11:50:28 AM »

My initial thought was also the TPS Switch. Are these fly by wire? That is one thing I don't know about these. If so, it could be that. The ABS/Traction control could also be a bad brake control module. Good luck ever finding one, but there is a guy on ebay who rebuilds them. You "Buy It Now", take yours off and send it to him, he rebuilds it and sends it back. All for about 50 bux. That was the fix on my Oldsmobile Intrigue.
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Tom Moog

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EFDisaster
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« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2015, 07:36:34 AM »

In case my problem (abs & trac lights are on - fwd '01) ends up being ebcm, and not just a sensor, does this eBay guy  still exist? I had trouble finding it with a search, maybe if I knew the exact part number?
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Tom Moog
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« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2015, 10:54:26 AM »

Here is a link to the guy that did mine. I couldn't be happier either! http://www.ebay.com/usr/myairbag?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754 Contact him if he doesn't show it in his store and ask him about it.

If he can't do it (and I fail to see why he couldn't) here is a listing for another seller that has yours listed... Double the money though... http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-02-03-04-05-Pontiac-Aztek-ABS-Pump-Control-Module-REPAIR-KIT-We-Install-/251192311465?fits=Make%3APontiac|Model%3AAztek&hash=item3a7c3a7ea9&vxp=mtr
« Last Edit: April 21, 2015, 10:58:50 AM by Tom Moog » Logged

Tom Moog

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« Reply #8 on: November 29, 2015, 11:02:55 PM »

An easy, and extremely cheap solution to see if the ABS traction control system is the issue with your acceleration issues, is to just disconnect the ABS sensors at each wheel. This will make it so the ABS/TC system wont engage because it has no real time data to process. If this fixes your acceleration problem, you then know its something in the ABS/TC system. If it doesnt fix it, hook your sensors back up, and look towards the engine.

You could have a faulty ignition module, one of the 3 coils could be bad, I cant remember if these have a MAF but that could cause the problems, TPS (throttle position sensor) could also, and just a simple tune up could fix the problem (plugs and wires) (I know, not that simple on the aztek).

With the issues you have explained, do you have a check engine light on? If so, head to your local autozone, and find out what the codes are, and report back.
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Brian - Carpe Diem

01 Pontiac Aztek GT OPT AWD 121k - 04 GMC Envoy XUV 182k - 05 Mercury Montego Premier AWD 52k (wrecked)

Tronman
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« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2018, 01:02:12 PM »

This sounds exactly like what mine has been doing, and you've done a lot of the similar things I did to chase down the problem.

If you have access to a scan tool with live codes and data, then use it to drive the car with calculated load percentage displayed.

I'll bet that when you hit about 38-42 percent calculated load, it goes to OL-D (Open Loop Drive) mode and sputters down to idle.  Then when you let go of the gas it goes back to CL (closed loop)?

If yes, then you have the same trouble I do.  After replacing the fuel pump, coil packs, module, wires and plugs (with NAPA parts, not cheeseballer O'Reilley's second line) and still having this issue, I eventually started getting PO300, random misfire.  Also LTFT (long term fuel trim) showing -4 or -5, indicating lean mixture.  What seems to be happening is the computer is cutting out the engine under load, because it's running lean, so as to not melt the catalyst in the converter.  Great for preserving the cat, but not so great for getting up that hill.

Having ruled out pretty much everything else, I'm leaning towards vacuum leak.  The first thing you can try, which is free, is to put a torque wrench on the bolts holding the upper intake manifold onto the engine.  The spec is 18 foot pounds or 25 N.m and mine were all finger loose after 227k miles. Start at the center and work your way out.
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