Welcome to the site! Take a minute to register and join us. It's FREE! (and fun)
The ORIGINAL Aztek Fan Club Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Always stay logged in

Login with username, password and session length
Home Gallery Help Login Register
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 6 ... 10
 21 
 on: April 22, 2018, 12:00:25 PM 
Started by Travelmin - Last post by Tronman
Have you dropped the pan to see if its full of dust/particles/metal shavings?  If it's intermittent, maybe there is a solenoid at fault.  Also that Lucas transmission treatment is a miracle worker sometimes.
  Notify of replies  


 22 
 on: April 22, 2018, 06:55:36 AM 
Started by weaeroplanes - Last post by Shiro
I can't get an image atm... But judging how old this post is, it doesn't really matter. It should go in a crater in the rear left corner behind the e-brake. You can find the same placement in the shotgun seat as well. I just recently put LEDs in mine, which is pretty epic 😂😂
  Notify of replies  


 23 
 on: April 20, 2018, 09:10:56 PM 
Started by Travelmin - Last post by Travelmin
SYMPTOMS:
Going into third gear steadily- grinding noise
Going into third gear stepping on it- tranny slip, enough to give a little jolt forward / no clunking noise
I've diagnosed failing transmission and transfer case, I'd like to know opinions on these symptoms.

REPLACMENT TRANNY/TRANSFER CASE:
I'm attempting to replace both these parts myself.

Is there any specialty tools I'm going to need? Not talking about regular tools, but something everyone doesn't just have on hand. (I'm rebuilding a Cummins truck to give a tool availablity idea)

I don't have a lift, so does anyone know how much space I'm going to need under the car to successfully remove and replace?

I'm looking to keep replacement parts as low cost as possible so I'm looking at salvaged trannys and transfer cases, has anyone had horror story endings with these kinds of replacements?

What do you think I should do? I just took it on a 300-400 mile round trip with no real issues but the above symptoms listed- and the symptoms aren't consistent just every once in awhile more so at the beginning of the drive then the end. Is it worth the effort?
If there are other posts on this forum that are a similar question I'd appreciate the information/direction.

Thanks in advance! Grin



  Notify of replies  


 24 
 on: April 20, 2018, 12:16:15 AM 
Started by Aztek2017 - Last post by Tronman
Just wondering if you ever rebuilt your Versatrak and how it went?

When I first got my Tek, it made the groaning noise around corners so I changed its expensive fluid.  Some fibers came out, but the fluid wasn't burnt.  A few years later it groaned again, so I changed the fluid, but no fibers came out that time.  Soon after, the AWD disable light came on and it's never groaned again, nor has it engaged the AWD :-(

When I took it in for something else, the dealer inspected the whole car and said the AWD wasn't working because of corrosion on the connector.  I looked at it myself and found none, but that's as far as I got because it seldom snows here.

After I get done with this whole engine situation, I'll look into the AWD and also ABS issues..
  Notify of replies  


 25 
 on: April 19, 2018, 07:18:29 PM 
Started by j_dyk0720 - Last post by Shiro
Hey, finally got it to work with mine. I needed the v2 harness cable to actually get power. The security issue could be a simple fix tho, I had the security go off on mine too and taking out the positive NOT the negative battery terminal for a few min resets the security settings. Does that help u?
  Notify of replies  


 26 
 on: April 19, 2018, 06:25:53 AM 
Started by hardwaregrrl - Last post by lonewolf04
If you plan to use the kit from the Montana, or even a Bonneville or any other vehicle potentially, I would definitely look up rear spring dimensions and compare them to what is on the Tek. This way you will get something that functions correctly. You might be able to call airlift directly and see if they know of someone that's used a set on a Tek as well.

I currently have airlift kit on my s10 and it works wonderfully.
  Notify of replies  


 27 
 on: April 18, 2018, 10:53:29 PM 
Started by hardwaregrrl - Last post by Tronman
I'd be surprised at this point if there's any reply to this, but..  I searched and found this kit https://www.airliftcompany.com/shop/60748/ which might fit an Aztek.  The AWD version has coil springs in its independent rear suspension, as does the FWD.  This kit comes with rubber air bags that go inside each coil spring and provide extra load capacity, and I notice they also sell various compressors and control systems to go along with them.

It would be cool to see how they work in an Aztek, as the kit is for the Montana.
  Notify of replies  


 28 
 on: April 18, 2018, 10:45:38 PM 
Started by zombienerd - Last post by Tronman
I drove mine like this for over two years, til the coolant side of  the LIM gasket failed.  Thankfully I caught it real fast and didn't drive the car around with chocolate milk in its oil circuits.. also two exhaust manifold studs had broken so that cylinder was undoubtedly sucking air into the exhaust stream and altering the mixture that the computer thinks the engine's at.  So what was happening was that the engine was running lean-which makes the exhaust really hot.  Like it was melting the metal heat shields above the muffler!  So to protect the engine, converter, and the car from catching fire the computer puts the engine in OL Drive mode above a certain percentage of calculated load-this percentage seems to equal about a third of the throttle travel.

So now when I run it, it will for sure have no vacuum leaks-as I even had the heads milled and the valves all vacuum tested and they were fine.  I'm installing the Fel-Pro super thick rubber sealed metal LIM gasket, which is supposed to be the best solution to this common 3400 engine foible.

I'm looking forward to being able to put my foot down and feel the power again.
  Notify of replies  


 29 
 on: April 18, 2018, 10:29:37 PM 
Started by Chuck240 - Last post by Tronman
That would be interesting  Smiley

Meanwhile, I looked at mine, and the side cover mates to the main body with a big aluminum gasket, and itself is a cast part with all kinds of lumps that look like they hold bearings..  it looks like if I removed the side cover, the whole guts of the thing would spill out/misalign and I'd really be stuck.  I should look at a diagram and see what's really under that big cast alloy side cover..  here it is.. https://www.all-trans.by/assets/site/files/gm/4T60E.pdf oh, well I guess I can just take that cover off and do the solenoids.

Or I might still live with the periodic rev clunk for a while longer while I recover from the LIM/head gasket/rocker arm debacle for a bit..  Shocked Grin
  Notify of replies  


 30 
 on: April 18, 2018, 07:09:57 PM 
Started by BlueGT - Last post by BlueGT
Not much new. Replaced the 4th gear clutch hub shaft and still don't have 4th, thinking it might be the valvebody.  Roll Eyes


Hubby was out a couple of weeks ago and met another Aztek owner. Gotta watch him as he said she was very sweet. hah He helped her hold her hatch up as she loaded her car.


Finally got the windows tinted yesterday.  Cool
  Notify of replies  


Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 6 ... 10
Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines
Theme Underground Yellow