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 on: February 28, 2018, 08:27:22 AM 
Started by crashcup - Last post by crashcup
Had a tranny rebuild at 150K on this 260K beauty. It has developed a slight issue. While moving from a stop, and speeding up, I hear a slight continuous scraping noise from the tranny. It exists in all gears and STOPS when the torque converter locks up. Now I know that touching the brake pedal unlocks the converter. When I press the brake to make the brake switch, the noise comes back. Release the brake and the noise goes away. So I connected a switch to break the circuit so I can unlock the converter without touching the brake.  Press the switch and theres the noise. Releasem it goes away. Sounds like the converter is going bad. No? No other shifting problems other than this.

what do you think?
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 on: February 27, 2018, 02:19:34 PM 
Started by Amphiduck - Last post by Amphiduck
Hello all,

Newbie here with Azteks and had a question on the climate control system.  I have an '04 FWD (single climate control) and the air conditioning blows hard in the cab.  When I turn it on to heat, it makes a lot of noise, but the air is very little movement.  I've torn out the knee bolster and underdash to replace the blender door actuator.  When I got to the actuator, the new and old both had full movement of the arm when plugged in.  Then, looking where the arm from the actuator connects, the little white Y-shaped plastic piece with the spring attached to it appears to be worn.  Is there a way to replace that part? Or replace the whole regulator unit with the arm? Is that even the cause? 

By the way, that is a huge pain to get to that actuator....

Thanks again for any insight!!
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 on: February 26, 2018, 10:37:28 AM 
Started by Nyghtstar - Last post by Nyghtstar
I was cleaning out the cavity around the windshield wipers with my pressure washer, I used the softer nozzle that's for cleaning lighter things like cars, I blasted out some leaves around the drivers side and now my windshield wipers won't work anymore. I've looked under the hood and I can't seem to think of a reason they would just randomly quit working after that. Help?
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 on: February 25, 2018, 08:39:46 PM 
Started by Trilips - Last post by Trilips
I think i might be crazy, EVERY other vehicle i have ever seen has had a slot or place where you can rotate the wheel hub to be able to get the wheel lug studs out and back in. My 2005 Aztek does not seem to have such a thing. if anyone has done this or has any tips for me before i tear the entire wheel hub off i would greatly appreciate it.
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 on: February 19, 2018, 05:41:34 PM 
Started by nerdydaddyo - Last post by BlueGT
The HD cooling system is part of the towing package and also has an engine oil cooler in addition to the larger alternator.
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 on: February 19, 2018, 12:46:29 PM 
Started by darkswitch155 - Last post by darkswitch155
I have a 2005 aztek, i recently replaced the battery and alternator and those are working fine. Had the key stuck issue and replaced the lock switch. Now randomly the battery indicator will come on and the vehicle starts to lose power and the cluster dims then car dies. I also notice that my ABS turns on randomlly when i break. Please help of you can. I hope its not the BCM.
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 on: February 19, 2018, 02:07:11 AM 
Started by grp3dradis - Last post by Tronman
Do you have access to a scan tool that can display live codes and data?  It might be worthwhile, if possible, to drive it around while watching the live data stream.  This will tell you if it's running rich or lean, at least.
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 on: February 19, 2018, 02:04:57 AM 
Started by nerdydaddyo - Last post by Tronman
I'm also replacing my worn out factory radiator, and couldn't tell much difference between regular and heavy duty cooling options.  Back in the day, heavy duty mean four core versus two, but nowadays they seem the same.

Maybe it has to do with more burly cooling fans and a bigger alternator?
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 on: February 18, 2018, 09:50:22 PM 
Started by Tronman - Last post by Tronman
Good call on the thread sealant!  Back in the day, we used to use the white liquid teflon stuff on SB Chevy V8s for the bolts that went into coolant passages.  Will that be adequate?

The heads are in the machine shop now, I'll talk to Wes (NAPA North Bend, WA machinist w/30+ years experience) tomorrow and see how it's going.  I'm considering having a little port work done if it's not terribly expensive..  hey, while the heads are in hand, right?  I'll take 8hp if I can get it.

Will straight edge the block after careful cleaning.  But the engine never got hot, so I'm kinda doubtful that anything warped.  Also good advice about the plastic scraper, as I would have just cleaned it like every other cast iron deck I ever cleaned-and smoothed out with a fine flat file.

Slightly on a tangent..  I'm perusing the Fiero and F body forums and seeing people put rather a lot of work into the old '80s 2.8 version of this engine.  They're doing aftermarket cams that are good to 5000 RPM, and putting all this money into flogging those ole' small journal horses.  Seeing as how the far superior, lighter, 3400 version has modern day alloy heads with 50cfm better flow, (oops, it doesn't have roller rockers, I meant to change this before this went up) and will do 6200 RPM no sweat..   and can be had for a dollar fifty a pound at any wrecking yard in the country because GM made a gazillion of 'em and no one hops up minivans..  why would anyone not simply go this route instead?
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 on: February 18, 2018, 06:13:33 PM 
Started by darkswitch155 - Last post by BlueGT
It will turn off after 10 minutes or you can do what I do often which is reach over and open the passenger door and close it.
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