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 1 
 on: Yesterday at 12:06:45 PM 
Started by slimbobaggins - Last post by aztekmarathon
Mine would do this but also it wouldn't shift properly while accelerating. I replaced the TPS and it stopped.
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 2 
 on: Yesterday at 12:05:36 PM 
Started by slimbobaggins - Last post by aztekmarathon
I had a similar issue but mine also would not coast to a stop as if the throttle was stuck open. I found the TPS was the problem. Replaced that and a few miles down the road it ran fine.
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 3 
 on: July 18, 2019, 08:39:28 AM 
Started by TheMissingByte - Last post by TheMissingByte
Gotcha. I haven't gone out and metered it yet(hence why I'm asking here) and that probably would have tripped me up. So one wire is ground, one is always hot and controlled by a switch on the RVM(?) and one is only hot when the door is open.  I'll need to either put a switch up top or somewhere on the console, and that somewhere might be next to the rear hatch button.

Now just to find some nice looking faux neon or LED strips, control electronics for them, and a switch.

 - Byte

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 4 
 on: July 16, 2019, 03:01:39 PM 
Started by GTABill - Last post by Pontiac6KSTEAWD
Looking good. Thats one of my top 3 favorite colors!
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 5 
 on: July 16, 2019, 01:56:12 PM 
Started by BPopilek - Last post by BPopilek
How are you verifying you have no power at these fuses? Fuse 25 for the blower motor is always fed when the car is in RUN. Are you grounding the fuse out with a test light or DVOMto verify? Check both terminals of the fuse when it's installed. Maybe the fuse is no good and not easily seen. Could also pull the fuse to make sure its good with a DVOM and check for resistance. The only reason you would not be receiving power to that particular fuse is having fuse block issues. You have an ignition feed to all slots powered up by a key in the run position. If you have some working and not others a bad fuse block could be an issue.

Once knowing that fuse 25 is good, check fuse 45 under the hood. This is actually the fuse that feeds power the blower to run. Fuse 25 delivers power through the HVAC control module and then depending on fan selection runs to the blower resister assembly, which controls the blower.

I have tested the fuses with the vehicle off, and when running. I check both sides of the fuse, and have used both a multimeter and a test light. Those 3 fuses I mentioned in the last post do not receive any power, no matter what position the key is in the ignition. I have verified that the fuses test good with continuity, so I think you might be right about a bad fuse block. I have a spare on hand, but I believe it is missing 1 or 2 of the fuses my car has. I suppose I could open the fuse panel and see if there is any corrosion or damage to the internal connections. I know that they wire harnesses going in to the back of the block don't show any wires that are damaged or melted.
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 6 
 on: July 16, 2019, 01:00:22 PM 
Started by TheMissingByte - Last post by dittohos
Also there is 3 wires going to the mirror. One is ground and the other two are power. The 2 power are 1) door opening light power and 2) mirror push button light switch(instant on).
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 7 
 on: July 16, 2019, 12:37:45 PM 
Started by GTABill - Last post by GTABill
Not too shabby for 15 years old and 200K miles.  Interior is in really good shape........no tears or dash issues.  A full exterior detail will be done when its back up and running.



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 8 
 on: July 16, 2019, 11:53:06 AM 
Started by TheMissingByte - Last post by TheMissingByte
Sweet, thank you Lonewolf!  I figured it was ~12v but wasn't 100% sure. And as far as the rear view mirror goes, I appreciate the offer but I'm not worried about keeping things original/stock.
This offers a great opportunity for a bit of customization and remedying the lack of interior light issue the '03s seem to have.

 - Byte

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 9 
 on: July 16, 2019, 11:41:51 AM 
Started by TheMissingByte - Last post by lonewolf04
Those lights are run off "12V", or system voltage. If you want to keep the stock rearview let me know. Have one on my donor Tek I don't need. Pay shipping and a couple bucks to cover paypal and package it up and I will send it to you.
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 10 
 on: July 16, 2019, 11:36:35 AM 
Started by BPopilek - Last post by lonewolf04
How are you verifying you have no power at these fuses? Fuse 25 for the blower motor is always fed when the car is in RUN. Are you grounding the fuse out with a test light or DVOMto verify? Check both terminals of the fuse when it's installed. Maybe the fuse is no good and not easily seen. Could also pull the fuse to make sure its good with a DVOM and check for resistance. The only reason you would not be receiving power to that particular fuse is having fuse block issues. You have an ignition feed to all slots powered up by a key in the run position. If you have some working and not others a bad fuse block could be an issue.

Once knowing that fuse 25 is good, check fuse 45 under the hood. This is actually the fuse that feeds power the blower to run. Fuse 25 delivers power through the HVAC control module and then depending on fan selection runs to the blower resister assembly, which controls the blower.
  Notify of replies  


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