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 1 
 on: Today at 09:12:58 PM 
Started by Soroki - Last post by BlueGT
We've always put in a quart of ATF in place of a quart of oil in all our engines, particularly high mile engines. Our 200,000 mile minivan's 3800 is super clean inside.
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 2 
 on: Today at 09:05:43 PM 
Started by Sebastian - Last post by BlueGT
You're sure you have the HUD? Because the DIC switches with the HUD isn't round.

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 3 
 on: Today at 09:02:03 PM 
Started by Sebastian - Last post by BlueGT
If it has a gray, 2 black, a yellow, a brown and a white wire, then it's definitely for the HUD. I don't remember any other gray connectors in the area when I replaced my dash.
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 4 
 on: Today at 09:00:41 PM 
Started by Sebastian - Last post by BlueGT
Should be for the HUD.
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 5 
 on: Today at 06:16:05 PM 
Started by Sebastian - Last post by Sebastian
I have an '01 Aztek with FWD, HUD, most options.  Previous owner removed the round DIC button on dash to add custom  equipment.  I am replacing the DIC button so I can control all the things that DIC button controls (lol).  Turns out there are two electrical connections at that point, one black and one gray.  The black one is for the DIC.  Anybody know what the gray one is for?  Looks to have 6 connections points in female end.  There doesn't appear to be anything anywhere near that vicinity for it to plug into, nor do I know of anything in the car that is not working now.
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 6 
 on: Yesterday at 10:57:54 PM 
Started by Tronman - Last post by Tronman
I got about ten minutes of run time out of it this time..  before it turned the new oil orange again with Dexcool.

Yep, it's gone bad three times now.  But on the plus side:  my brake harness wiring repairs worked and the ABS  and AWD disable indicators are both out now!!  I fixed the electrical problem, yaay!!  Except for the part where I can't drive it because the engine's full of coolant.

I'm ready to give up and sell it as a mechanic's special.
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 7 
 on: Yesterday at 10:54:37 PM 
Started by Soroki - Last post by Tronman
Well it sounds a lot like lifters.  Geez, that engine is dirty inside.. 

Here's the old fashioned repair, and this worked for me on mine when it started making that noise at 180K..  change the oil, and substitute one of the quarts of oil with Dexron ATF.  Drive it around for a couple hundred miles, then pour in a can of Seafoam.  Yes, pour it right into the crankcase.  Drive it around for a couple hundred more miles, then again change the oil.  It should stop making the noise at some point during this procedure-mine did.  This is the old fashioned way to free up a sticking lifter, which you hope is the source of that noise :-)

Be sure you are using Mobil-1 synthetic 5w30 oil.  And if this fixes the problem, again pour in a can of Seafoam just a few hundred miles before the 3000 mile engine oil change.  Which you should do if you want another 100K out of that engine.
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 8 
 on: May 24, 2018, 10:39:41 PM 
Started by alchemist - Last post by Tronman
So..  after replacing those front wiring connectors and harnesses, and simply unplugging and replugging all the other connectors, I started it today after fixing the heads *again* and hey..  the ABS and AWD disable indicator lights were both out!  Yaaay!!!

Then the oil was coolant orange again in about five minutes and there's a cam sensor trouble code..  but BY GOLLY THE ABS IS FIXED NOW.
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 9 
 on: May 22, 2018, 09:12:35 PM 
Started by Soroki - Last post by Soroki
So I recently purchased a 2001 Aztek with 131k and for some reason out of nowhere it started making some bad knocking noises almost like a ping and I can't tell if its bearings or maybe something top end?
Any advice would be appreciated

https://youtu.be/umr-qCR4wrg
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 10 
 on: May 22, 2018, 12:52:03 AM 
Started by alchemist - Last post by Tronman
That does help, alot.  Thank you!!
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