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Author Topic: Water pump OR more coolant bleeding?  (Read 5112 times)
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Dumpy
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« on: December 18, 2011, 10:07:42 PM »

Hi all
I'm a little puzzled, and would appreciate your input and experiences!

Water pump OR more coolant bleeding.

Done or checked:

1) Drained rad and refilled rad and overflow about 2 weeks ago
2) Opened bleeder valves for 3 seconds when hot and running 2 -3 times on level ground

Observations:

1) Temp Gage is at 1/4 during and after 20 min at highway speeds
2) Upper hose is hot
3) Lower hose is just warm and water pump housing is hot
4) Overflow tank is 1/3 to 1/2 where it normally is
5) When loosened, rad cap oozes very warm coolant

* Have not tried to bleed coolant when on a grade (up or down)

Any and all ideas are appreciated!
Thanks
Rob   

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Yellow 2002 1SB FWD
Wolfy1969
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« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2011, 01:42:06 AM »

I can't tell from your post what your problem is - what you observed seems to be just regular operation....what's it doing or not doing?
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Dumpy
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« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2011, 01:53:51 PM »

Hey whats there to complain about!

The problem as I see it is not enough heat coming into the cab as previously observed, before the draining and refilling the rad with coolant.

Normally it would take no longer than 10-15 min at highway speeds to get lots of heat.

Thanks
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Dumpy
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« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2011, 10:48:11 AM »


Wolfy1969, I found a post where you described bleeding off the coolant!

I have found (so far) that bleeding the coolant several times will be necessary, also to have the coolant below the filler neck to check for flow & expansion of coolant. I also had the heater blowing into the cab BUT not in the defrost mode. This made some improvement with the temperature gage reading almost at the 1/2 mark, where I expect it to be (rather than the 1/4 mark before)

I plan to bleed the coolant a few more times when its hot, in the coming days.

Thanks for reading. . .
Rob
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Dumpy
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« Reply #4 on: December 21, 2011, 10:00:17 AM »

Ok, so last night the temperature gage was still at 1/4 and not 1/2 mark as I hoped it would.

Today I will be jacking up the front end after its hot and bleed the coolant again.

Just chime in with anything that you have tried with bleeding the coolant!

Thanks
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Wolfy1969
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« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2011, 02:09:36 PM »

You really shouldn't have to mess too much with bleeding since in the Tek the radiator cap is basically the highest point in the cooling system...bleeding came more into play when the radiator sat down lower than some other point in the system as the air would rise to the top...

You've said the upper radiator hose is hot...but what about the heater hoses going into the firewall?  Those feed your heater core of course, one going in and the other coming back out...I would think they would both be hot once the engine's up to temp...

With the cap off and the engine running (taking proper safety precautions of course), can you see the coolant moving in the radiator?  Once the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow, you should be able to see the coolant in the radiator churning or look like it's being stirred as it's coming back from the engine and being pumped back out by the water pump.

That fact that your gauge is reading 1/4 seems to indicate the coolant is circulating or you'd be overheating.

Are you losing coolant anywhere? 

In the system, you have the radiator, water pump, thermostat, heater core, and the temp sensor...and the hoses that connect them...that's it...
If the upper hose is hot, thermostat's opening...if you see coolant moving, water pump's working (and more evidence thermostat's opened up)..

That leaves 2 things: a plugged or blocked heater core - OR - a thermostat that's stuck OPEN, not allowing the engine to really build up much heat to transfer to the coolant.

I'm going to have a look at the online shop manuals and see what they say....
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Wolfy1969
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« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2011, 02:21:32 PM »

Yep, basically the shop manual says if the engine isn't reaching normal operating temp, replace the thermostat.

If you look at the 1st couple of posts in my 3.4L V6 Teardown thread, you'll see what you have to do to get at it....small pain, but it's doable - just have to get the air cleaner ducts out of the way...
« Last Edit: December 21, 2011, 02:32:51 PM by Wolfy1969 » Logged
Dumpy
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« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2012, 04:40:15 PM »

Yep, basically the shop manual says if the engine isn't reaching normal operating temp, replace the thermostat.

If you look at the 1st couple of posts in my 3.4L V6 Teardown thread, you'll see what you have to do to get at it....small pain, but it's doable - just have to get the air cleaner ducts out of the way...

Thank you Wolfy1969, I'll be reviewing your teardown once again!
btw Thanks for doing the teardown javascript:void(0);

Will post again when I get this done (don't hold you breath)

Rob
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Wolfy1969
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« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2012, 04:59:34 PM »

No problem - if you get stuck, PM or email me here  - I'll be glad to help if I can...Good Luck..
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Dumpy
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« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2012, 05:33:50 PM »

Well what do you know, its done!!!

mon capitan = Wolfy1969

Replaced: LIM & IM gaskets (Fel pro)
 
              Thermostat  (wasn't stuck open)

              Water pump

              Spark plugs & wires  (after 160 KL, wow what a difference!)

              Reversed flushed the heater core  (now there's heat!)

              Sea foamed the injectors (sort of)

              No more Dex-cool

Time:  3 days as I was on holidays, so no rush.

          Wolfy1969 3.4L tear down/rebuild on every morning!



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Yellow 2002 1SB FWD
Wolfy1969
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« Reply #10 on: January 24, 2012, 07:57:51 AM »

Glad to hear it - again proving if it helped even just one person, it was worth the time and effort.  Great to hear you're back on the road and it sounds like she's in better shape than before.  Plus, you did it yourself and saved yourself easily a grand in labor.  Congrats!
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crashcup
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« Reply #11 on: February 28, 2018, 08:43:15 AM »

Dumpy, did you get crud when you flushed the heater core?
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