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Author Topic: Dancing Gauges, with party lights and all  (Read 15272 times)
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arkansas
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« Reply #15 on: April 15, 2005, 06:57:40 PM »

I went to Oreiley's and they said that the alternator is fine and that the battery is marginal, which I guess means it's not up to par!  And the security display keeps coming up, so do you think that it might have something to do with it?
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arkansas
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« Reply #16 on: April 15, 2005, 07:04:05 PM »

Ok I did the light test and the head lights did not dim!  Did it 2xs to make sure.
I don't know if this will help, but 3/4 of the Radio LCD is blacked out, and has been since before this started!  And the radio is connected to the doors.
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JediSkipdogg
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« Reply #17 on: April 15, 2005, 07:48:32 PM »

I think I'm going to step to the side for a second and let someone else take a stab at this before I go to saying it's the BCM.  I'm not saying it is and not saying it's not yet.  The battery could be the entire cause of the problem here.  I know in the Aztek alot is known to act up when the battery is low.  In my eyes it kinda depends on how low marginal is.  

The part that puzzles me is if the battery was low, I would think the headlights would dim alot when you rolled the windows up and down.  Those combined drain a large amount of power.

Therefore someone else take a few stabs at this.
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Newfie Hauler
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« Reply #18 on: April 16, 2005, 08:43:33 AM »

Ok you provided a lot of information since I last weighed in on this.  I am now suspecting the battery.  However, before you rush out and replace the battery there are a few things to consider.  The battery light coming is normal on start up.  The BCM and the other electrical devices that you mentioned are very suseptible to low current (whatever its source may be).  You had the battery and generator tested.  What about the generator belt?  Is it slipping?  Worn?  What are the battery connections like, meaning are they corroded?  They should be nice and clean for the best electrical contact.  Did you test the battery cables? Is the ground connection good?  If you turn on the headlamps and engage the starter the light should dim when you engage the starter.  If the starter does not engage and the starter solenoid starts to just click, you are not getting enough power to the starter.  What happens when you try that?

Now the low current has obviously set some codes, because of the service engine soon light illuminating and the security light.  That is a good thing as it might help the service facility pinpoint the problem for you so you don't play the game of replacing parts to solve the problem.  Replacing the battery might resolve some of the electrical issues and might reset the codes.  However, if you do that and the warning lights are on, you may have to have a dealer or a service facility read the codes and erase them if there is no other problems found or have them correct the real problem.
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squeakytrout
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« Reply #19 on: April 17, 2005, 05:34:30 PM »

My '01 Tek did that at about the 40,000 mark.

Happened on really hot days after my car had been sitting in the sun at work. Everything electrical on the vehicle would pulse on and off - headlights, AC, IP, windows, etc.

Dealership replaced my BCM and it never happened again (36,000 mi later), but I suppose that's not to say something indirectly got fixed in the operation also. I had no warning lights though, but the mechanic said my security system was a matter of time if I didn't fix the problem.

Don't know if that helps, or hinders, but thought I'd share  Smiley

Edit: should probably also mention that my electrical engineer friend found the bad BCM explanation on my car hard to swallow...
« Last Edit: April 17, 2005, 05:36:39 PM by squeakytrout » Logged

2005 1SB FWD
Electric Blue Metallic

I still miss my 2001 FWD GT
Citrus Green Metallic
Newfie Hauler
Guest
« Reply #20 on: April 18, 2005, 06:09:42 AM »

Quote
Edit: should probably also mention that my electrical engineer friend found the bad BCM explanation on my car hard to swallow...
Squeakytrout,

I know what you mean.  It seems that most dealerships rush to the conclusion that the BCM has failed.  Please see the attached article. http://www.gmtechlink.com/images/issues/fe...05e.html#story6  

Grant it, there are times where the BCM is definately the culprit and must be replaced.  Proper diagnosis will determine when they need to be replaced.

Newfie
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arkansas
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« Reply #21 on: April 18, 2005, 07:14:02 AM »

Ok it is funny thay you said that, My security light has been coming on, so I guess I need to hurry.  Also I went under the hood and pulled the BCM fuse and then turned the key to the on position and then back off, then put the fuse back in and the liftgate and hatched opened!   Of course this creates another problem, now when I'm at home and the tek is doing it's on/off thing it now pops the hatch!  Then it won't after you start the vehicle and then turn it off again!  So it does sound like I have a BCM problem, any one have a suggestion?  
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JediSkipdogg
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« Reply #22 on: April 18, 2005, 07:18:30 AM »

arkansas, I'll say that idea of pulling the fuse was not a good one.  The reason is because the BCM will then clear out all error codes that it had.  Meaning if you were to take it into the dealer today they would laugh at you.  What you did has been known as a temporary fix for many, I don't think a permanent fix for anyone.  So your problems will reoccur it's just unknown as to when and what level.  But since you pulled the fuse and cleared the codes you have to wait until your problem happens again to take it in to get fixed.

My next question is this.  You said the hatch opens on it's own now?  My thoughts are that this is definitely related toa  loose connector somewhere that isn't making a full signal.  The BCM would shut off that device to prevent damage to it and that is why it wasn't working.  So I think it's a connector or bad wire somewhere.  The hardest part will be finding it.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2005, 07:20:31 AM by JediSkipdogg » Logged
arkansas
Guest
« Reply #23 on: April 18, 2005, 07:23:42 AM »

Oh that won't be a problem, that did not fix the flickering problem, it still shows all the codes, and still does the problem!  But it does sound like the gentleman that had his BCM replaced has a very similar issue.  Mine won't do it in the morning time, it only does it after it has been started for the 2nd time!  Doesn't seem to matter how long you drive it, after the second start it happens!  So I think I might take it to the dealer for a diagnostics test just to see what they say!  I wish pulling that fuse would have fixed it, the vehicle is undriveable!
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arkansas
Guest
« Reply #24 on: April 18, 2005, 07:29:01 AM »

Sorry, to answer the seond have of your post.  Yeah when I first got the vehicle, 2 months ago, used, the hatch wouldn't open, not by key nor by the button on the console, but according to the dealer, it had worked before the winter!  So I assumed, dumb of me, that it was the first of the year hatch opening problem that was explained on this forum. THis vehicle was rear ended when it was brand new, but only moderate damage was done.  So do you think that the hatch not opening and the lights flickering could be the related?  I mean once the hatch opens it is it works perfectly, so who ever repaired the vehicle did a great job!  Let me know what you think, or is the diagnostics the best way to go, or do you think they will just try to replace my BCM, instead of fixing the real problem?
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JediSkipdogg
Guest
« Reply #25 on: April 18, 2005, 07:32:39 AM »

Here's the thing....just going off what Newfie a few posts up said.  Many times the BCM is not the issue, but it is something as simple as a connector.  This could even be the main connector coming out of the BCM.  This could not be seated fully and could be the cause.  Well, a dealership won't take the time to look at that, they will pull up a code, it will say failing to communicate with XXXXX and then they will just replace the BCM.  It's a known problem.  Well, when they put the new one in, they will reseat the connector and waa-laa (magical smoke too) they will have a brand new working BCM.  

The problem comes in that it could be any of hundreds of connectors if that is the cause.  That is why some owners have had to go through 2 BCMs.  It's because they haven't found the connector that is bad and the new BCM happens to run perfectly fine for a long time until a nice vibration causes that connector to come loose.  I'm just letting you know this if you are the one paying for this repair so that you don't have to dish out $500 on a new BCM and that not fully fix it or even if it does fix it, that that wasn't the original problem since their failure rate is really only 25%.

EDIT: While I was typing this you replied again.  Yes, I think they will just jump on the BCM replacement bandwagon.  It may or may not be the problem.  The problem is that techs don't have the tools to do a deep diagnostic on the BCM to find out if it's really bad or not.  It could even be a connector in the rear was damage and is causing all the problems and shorting other stuff out as well.  It's really hard to say when you get into wiring.  I wish I could give you some more info, maybe someone else can give you some thoughts before you jump on the BCM replacement bandwagon.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2005, 07:35:53 AM by JediSkipdogg » Logged
arkansas
Guest
« Reply #26 on: April 18, 2005, 07:43:47 AM »

Ok another question for you, where is the BCM located? And on the connector thing, wherer woulf the connector be located in the back?  I took off some of the body panels in the rear, top drivers side, and there aren't very many visable wires, the reason I ask, is because I'm not for sure if I will have to pay for this or if the dealer is going to hold good on word. Either way I would like to get it fixed, so I don't have to worry being pulled over!  
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JediSkipdogg
Guest
« Reply #27 on: April 18, 2005, 07:46:49 AM »

The BCM Is located under the rear cupholder in the center console.  Directly in front of where the cooler is.  So you have to remove that center console to get to it.

In the rear, I'm doing this off of an assumption on how I woould do it.  I would think the rear wiring harness would come up the driver's side and be on the floor.  It may be possible to see behind the lower trim panel in the rear cargo area (where the speaker is.)  THat is my thoughts on where that would come up at.  I can try and find out later by looking at a wiring harness.  BUt that would be my thoughts on where it runs.
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arkansas
Guest
« Reply #28 on: April 18, 2005, 07:52:32 AM »

I will try looking there tonight!  If you could email me that wiring diagram, or tell me where to go to look at it, I would like a copy just because!  I would appreciate that a whole bunch!
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JediSkipdogg
Guest
« Reply #29 on: April 18, 2005, 09:17:28 AM »

I looked at the diagrams I have an unfortunately they just show the wiring harness as a part.  You can't tell where it would go or anything like that.  I think your best choice on this would be to wait for Newfie or someone else with repair books to reply.  Gosh, I so need to order a set of those.
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