The ORIGINAL Aztek Fan Club

AZTEK GARAGE (Peer Support) => MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL/OTHER => Topic started by: alchemist on August 05, 2007, 07:47:27 PM



Title: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 05, 2007, 07:47:27 PM
Well, the 'Tek lives again.  C305 was indeed the source of the majority of my problems.  After the C305-Ectomy, my fuel pump started right up.

I promised a pictorial how-to, so here we go:

First pic is a shot of the interior with the two driver's side seats and the first couple pieces or molding removed:

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage01.jpg)

Stage 2, the seat-belt mechanism cover molding is removed:

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage02.jpg)

Stage 3:  Removing the rear seat bracket cover.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage03.jpg)

To snap the bracket out, you have to pry those two center tabs up to release a latch:

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage03b.jpg)

Stage 4:  Carpet removed over the evil connector:

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage04.jpg)


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 05, 2007, 07:55:31 PM
Stage 5:  Removing the connector.  Notice the two rivets. that must be pried up to remove the connector:

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage05.jpg)

Stage 6:  Connector removed, and the two plugs from under the vehicle pulled up for easy access.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage06.jpg)

Stage 7:  Bypassing the connector.  The good news is that the wiring color code is the same on both sides of the connector.  In this view, one of the wires has already been soldered.  Not the piece of large heat shrink tubing I have passed it through in the lower left hand corner of the pic.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage07.jpg)

Stage 7A:  Second wire twisted together before soldering.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage07a.jpg)

Stage 7B:  Wire after soldering.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage07b.jpg)


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: diceallion on August 05, 2007, 07:59:39 PM
I love the second picture I noticed the umbrella was not there in the forst pic, made me laugh thinking you might have got a leak comming in... LOL, Sorry Alch, it was my thoughts.

On another note... Wicked cool to show how you gutted out the tek.  Are you finished?  I love the detailed work and images.  WELL DONE WELL DONE!!!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 05, 2007, 08:07:57 PM
Stage 7C:  Wire with it's heat-shrink applied, pre-shrink.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage07c.jpg)

Stage 7D:  Wire shrink-wrapped.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage07d.jpg)

Stage 8:  All 4 wires from the first connector finished.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage08.jpg)

Stage 9:  Complete connector is finally bypassed!  Hallelujah!!!!

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage09.jpg)

Stage 10:  At this point, all of the wires were moved into the large piece of heat-shrink tubing from the Stage 7 pic.  The tubing has been shrunk, then wrapped with almost an entire role of self-amalgamating "Mastic Tape" (as Lowescalls it) has been wrapped around it.  The Mastic tape is sort of tar-like and makes a water-proof seal.  After the Mastic tape was applied, I wrapped the wiring with standard electrical tape.  Had to shorten the split loom tubing under the vehicle just a bit to accommodate the heat-shrink, but lo9oking under the vehicle the split-loom appears to merge directly into the splice.  In the cab, this is what you see:

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage10.jpg)

Stage 11:  The connector all sealed up.  I used more of the Mastic under the 4 edges of lid plate and around the splice where it passes under the lip in the lid, then replaced the rivets with a pair of screws with lock-nuts under the 'Tek.  So now I'll never have any more problems with C305.

(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa210/Alchemist_29/stage11.jpg)


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 05, 2007, 08:14:04 PM
I love the second picture I noticed the umbrella was not there in the forst pic, made me laugh thinking you might have got a leak coming in... LOL, Sorry Alch, it was my thoughts.

On another note... Wicked cool to show how you gutted out the tek.  Are you finished?  I love the detailed work and images.  WELL DONE WELL DONE!!!

Actually, the umbrella IS there in the first pic.  It's just from a slightly different angle, but if you look closely at the center console, you can see the wooden handle end poking out.  Fortunately I think I've got all the leaks fixed.  Today is one of the few days it hasn't rained in the last couple of weeks.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Aztek-Knight on August 05, 2007, 08:18:17 PM
Very nice! The photo essay is a great idea, thanks for sharing it!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: clarkeaj on August 05, 2007, 08:48:35 PM
That's not blood on the second picture is it?

Dr. more suction please.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 05, 2007, 08:56:15 PM
That's not blood on the second picture is it?

Dr. more suction please.

Not sure what the prior owner hauled around, but the rear cargo area has several large bright yellow stains, and when I took out the driver's seat, there were several large bright pink stains under the seat.  Almost looks like bulk highlighter ink or something.

But speaking of blood...  I just realized I managed to complete the whole operation completely un-injured.  Not even a solder-burn.  I think that's a first for me.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: MQV Son of Quinn on August 06, 2007, 05:54:59 AM
As my wife says did you get it done without any bad words?? HEE HEE FOMRCLMAO (still Elisha's fault)

Jack


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Gatinotek on August 06, 2007, 06:45:50 AM


God i love this site
I know if my tek ever gives me trouble like stalling in the midle of nowhere i'm going for that c-305 connector first
I'm wondering if i shouldn't get under there and unplug it then fill it with greae and tre-plug it just in case to avoid having to work this out

What do you think Dice?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 06, 2007, 08:25:44 AM
Before all of this trouble, I would have said, yeah, that's a great idea, but now I sort of feel like that's a waste of time.  Apparently the plugs have a very finite life span to them.  Any unnecessary unplugging and replugging and the female connectors spread out and get too loose and stop making connection. (And yes, I tried every way I could think of to keep that from sounding dirty, and any way I put it, it just sounds about the same.)  Second, packing with grease will only protect the inside parts of the connector.  After disassembling mine, I found that the main corrosion was on the exposed parts of the terminals where the wires attach to the pins.  In fact, I didn't take a pic of it and wish I had, but the metal lid over the connector has a couple of burned places where something had obviously arced to it from inside the connector.  I can almost say with 100% certainty that my C305 failure was cause by the window being down during the rain storm the week before I bought the 'Tek.  The majority of the damage was on the interior side of the connector.



God i love this site
I know if my tek ever gives me trouble like stalling in the midle of nowhere i'm going for that c-305 connector first
I'm wondering if i shouldn't get under there and unplug it then fill it with greae and tre-plug it just in case to avoid having to work this out

What do you think Dice?



Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Gatinotek on August 06, 2007, 09:08:01 AM
THanks for the reply i remember looking underneathe te tek when i bought it last year and was thinking to myseld "who's the numbnuts who thought of putting a connecter there?"

Well we can count it as part of the engineering flaws of the Aztek





Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 06, 2007, 10:14:44 AM
You know, I've been thinking about that connector ever since I first started having problems with it and I keep coming back to the fact that the 'Tek was designed completely on computer.  That connector reminds me of one of the bad decisions a circuit board routing program might make if you told it to do "shortest path" routing.  An intelligent engineer should have just brought all the wire forward, came up through the engine compartment and passed it through the firewall somewhere safe and waterproof.  We can't totally blame it on the computer though because the engineering oversight should have caught it and realized how phenomenally stupid it was to have a connector there, regardless of how waterproof it appeared to be.

THanks for the reply i remember looking underneathe te tek when i bought it last year and was thinking to myseld "who's the numbnuts who thought of putting a connecter there?"

Well we can count it as part of the engineering flaws of the Aztek



Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: CartierBear on August 06, 2007, 10:26:37 AM
That sucks  though i was wondering how to get the 2nd row trim pieces off.  I got the pinouts for those harnesses  for future reference i guess it seems not only is it fuel level but the wheel speed sensors go through it as well  may explain ABS or wheel bearing lights  i guess the axle actuater is a AWD thing  possibly is yours an awd alchemist i see you dont have a 3rd harness


(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/Intrepidcub2/305connector.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/Intrepidcub2/untitled.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/Intrepidcub2/305-2.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc78/Intrepidcub2/305ss.jpg)


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 06, 2007, 11:30:33 AM
Mine is not an AWD.  I was right though...  The fuel pump power does go through that connector.  How stupid is that.

That sucks  though i was wondering how to get the 2nd row trim pieces off.  I got the pinouts for those harnesses  for future reference i guess it seems not only is it fuel level but the wheel speed sensors go through it as well  may explain ABS or wheel bearing lights  i guess the axle actuater is a AWD thing  possibly is yours an awd alchemist i see you dont have a 3rd harness


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: diceallion on August 06, 2007, 08:46:45 PM
Damn to that connector, it is like such a vital part of the vehicle, but yet exposed to everything possible that could damage it.

Ron...  I thought about what you said, and was thinking it could be a good idea before our winters, but then Alch brings up some great points.  I will wait untill the rally and let hime redo all mine like his :P :P :P :P :P  RIGHT BUDDY OL PAL, lolol.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: ktntek on August 06, 2007, 11:31:45 PM
I think I like your way better.....I have ordered and been waiting for awhile now, replacement male and female pins to rebuild the connectors.   Ectomy may be the better and longer lasting way to go.   Thanks for photos -- you make it look almost easy.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on August 07, 2007, 08:25:17 AM
Thanks for photos -- you make it look almost easy.

We'll see if I can do the same thing for the LIM/Head gasket replacement in a couple of weeks.  (Have to let me back recover from this job first.)

It really was a lot easier than I thought it would be though, since the wires were long enough to do the soldering from the cab side rather than under the car.  One thing I did not mention in the original posts is that a few of the wires had internal corrosion and the copper was almost solid black when I stripped the insulation.  I cleaned the wires with contact cleaner before soldering them, and the solder flux did a pretty good job of cleaning them too.  The only thing that was kind of difficult was that the passenger door was seriously in my way.  If could have opened another 10 degrees it would have been a lot easier.  As it was though, I was sort of bent at a really odd angle for the entire operation and now the right side of my body feels like a rubber band that is stretched too tight. 


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Aztekkn on August 08, 2007, 06:49:48 PM
Awesome job alchemist.
I especially liked the leatherman laying on the floor in some of the pics. Dead give away to a true ready for anything man.
I checked this connector on Aztekkn when I was having all my BCM problems, and it looks like it is brand new, inside and out.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: c2grainger on January 02, 2008, 04:00:20 PM
thanks for this posting.  Looks like I'm going there too.  On my way back from the milk run, (5 kids from Sept-Iles to Sherbrooke Qc.), the gas gage coudn't decide how much fuel I've got.  Now using milage to calculate. My symptoms are moving from full to where I think the real quantity is.  Engine off seems to be real.  I've checked it a few times since reading this.  I the plugged in the scanner and there are no codes stored.  It being -20C at the moment, I'll wait for better temps, or find a nice friend with a garage.  One thing missing in the post,  how much time did it take to strip down, and do the full job?  Would help me to plan the fix.  I'm not sure I want to give this to our dealer, as I don't seem to be satisfied with them. And it's something I can do.  Before I go inside I'll try to see if I can clean/dry from under the tek.  MY BCM's already been changed, and if it gives me the right level of fuel in off mode, I assume the sender is not in fault.

thanks again, C2G


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on January 02, 2008, 06:09:36 PM
I've done so much more to the car since then I don't really recall exactly how much time it too, but couldn't have been more than about 2-3 hours from fully assembled back to fully assembled.  This will probably fix your fuel gauge problem, but I can't absolutely guarantee it.  Apparently there are some knows problems with the fuel sending unit, primarily as a result of some high-sulfur gas being distributed a couple of years ago that prematurely aged the fuel level sensor in the tank.  However, I would recommend trying this first since it is a relatively simple fix and, in my opinion, should be done to every 'Tek anyway to prevent issues in the future.  If your problems get as bad as mine did before the connector is removed you run the risk of having the corrosion creep up into the wires' insulation and then having to replace large sections of wire by hand or replacing the entire harness (big bucks).  I think if mine had been that bad I probably would have tried reconstructing the harness by hand rather than buying a new one from the dealer.  It's just wire after all.  Just have to make notes of the new color codes.

thanks for this posting.  Looks like I'm going there too.  On my way back from the milk run, (5 kids from Sept-Iles to Sherbrooke Qc.), the gas gage coudn't decide how much fuel I've got.  Now using milage to calculate. My symptoms are moving from full to where I think the real quantity is.  Engine off seems to be real.  I've checked it a few times since reading this.  I the plugged in the scanner and there are no codes stored.  It being -20C at the moment, I'll wait for better temps, or find a nice friend with a garage.  One thing missing in the post,  how much time did it take to strip down, and do the full job?  Would help me to plan the fix.  I'm not sure I want to give this to our dealer, as I don't seem to be satisfied with them. And it's something I can do.  Before I go inside I'll try to see if I can clean/dry from under the tek.  MY BCM's already been changed, and if it gives me the right level of fuel in off mode, I assume the sender is not in fault.

thanks again, C2G


Title: Going to do this
Post by: jaskispyder on August 07, 2008, 06:22:20 AM
Pulled my connector apart and water came out.  Lots of geen and very little copper :) 

I cleaned and reseated many of the pins, but the pins themselves are getting bad.  I figured it is easy enough to just bypass this whole thing.  I may look into buying new connectors at the auto parts store and make up a new connection under the aztek.  Just a thought though.

Bad design.


Title: Re: Going to do this
Post by: alchemist on August 08, 2008, 12:34:48 PM
It's really not worth the trouble of replacing the connectors.  It will just go bad again and the next time the wires may be to short to do the bypass without a splice.

Pulled my connector apart and water came out.  Lots of geen and very little copper :) 

I cleaned and reseated many of the pins, but the pins themselves are getting bad.  I figured it is easy enough to just bypass this whole thing.  I may look into buying new connectors at the auto parts store and make up a new connection under the aztek.  Just a thought though.

Bad design.


Title: Re: Going to do this
Post by: ryano on August 09, 2008, 01:43:45 PM
It's really not worth the trouble of replacing the connectors.  It will just go bad again and the next time the wires may be to short to do the bypass without a splice.

Pulled my connector apart and water came out.  Lots of geen and very little copper :) 

I cleaned and reseated many of the pins, but the pins themselves are getting bad.  I figured it is easy enough to just bypass this whole thing.  I may look into buying new connectors at the auto parts store and make up a new connection under the aztek.  Just a thought though.

Bad design.

I concur.  I did an ectomy, and have been fine ever since.  alchemist is dead on here.  Use the solder, shrink wrap, and never worry again.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: bubbawilks on May 19, 2009, 09:08:54 AM
My car would not crank one day recent, so I did this last night. Car cranked right up, never have to worry about it again. The connector was so corroded.. thanks for these posts!!!!!!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: swaggaty91 on May 19, 2009, 10:11:14 AM
My Tek has over 120k miles on her and I plan to keep her for about another 80k miles. Do you recommend I do this ectomy? I don't want anything to crap out on me somewhere down the road. My Tek is kept in the garage so the only time it sits out in the rain is when I'm camping. But it's still something to think about doing considering the amount of miles I plan to keep the Tek for.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: ryano on May 21, 2009, 07:11:02 PM
It would give peace of mind I guess.  If you're comfortable with it, I guess it would be worth it.  I did mine out of pure necessity.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: swaggaty91 on May 21, 2009, 07:36:38 PM
I'll probably go ahead and do it. I hate when things wrong with the Tek. If that connector has a bad history in Azteks, and this seems like a 'somewhat' easy fix, I might as well next time I have a few hours alone with the Tek.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on May 28, 2009, 08:17:25 PM
I'll probably go ahead and do it. I hate when things wrong with the Tek. If that connector has a bad history in Azteks, and this seems like a 'somewhat' easy fix, I might as well next time I have a few hours alone with the Tek.

I'd say it's better to do it before you have any problems because you may get now warning at all.  The first time the fuel pump cut out on me I didn't realize it until I hit the gas and nothing happened.  I didn't even get any warning lights on the dash.  As far as the computer was concerned the vehicle was still running.  If I had been in heavy traffic I probably would have had a wreck.  As it was I had just enough momentum to pull into a defunct gas station and managed to coax it into working for just a little while longer.

I think the main problem is that the connector is close enough to the front wheels that it picks up all the water and crud thrown up by the wheels.  Even packing the connector with dielectric grease didn't help my issues.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: swaggaty91 on May 28, 2009, 08:45:00 PM
Well, that's it. A new weekend project. Thanks for the info.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: STFU on July 09, 2009, 02:02:21 PM
I just finished the 305-ectomy on my 2001 FWD GT. I was having all sorts of intermittent electrical issues, hard starting, and stalling. It got to the point where my wife was afraid to drive it. I just wish I had found this post before I replaced the BCM!  :banghead: Oh well, live and learn. I was thinking seriously of selling my Tek before I found out about the C305 connector. Thanks for the great info.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: LUVmyTEK on August 24, 2009, 09:13:48 AM
Alchemist:

I just really wanted to thank you for providing the technical info/pic on this. My Tek is now c305 free after way too many issue with stalling/not running die to no fuel, leaving me stranded 3 times in six months. Took it on a 600 mile trip this past weekend and no problems at all. Getting rid of the connector even cured my engine light due to an evap code.

Thanks again
Tonya


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: jpm1145 on August 30, 2009, 09:50:07 AM
I had a post in the Service area about a problem I'm having with the SES light and
P0440 codes. The gas cap fix/change didn't work for me unless there is more to it
than just changing the cap. Are all the caps supposed to spin and never tighten?
Anyway, I thought that trying the C305 ectomy should be my first step as it looks
from the great write up by the Achemist that it should be too hard. My thought is
to forego the removal of the front seat and just make a couple of cuts in the rug
and pull the flap back and do the work. The car is 8 years old and I use mats in the back.
A little glue when done and I'll never notice. Any thoughts?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Krovas on September 07, 2009, 04:56:35 PM
I'm going to tackle this before winter.

One question: should the battery be disconnected first, or does it not matter?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: jpm1145 on September 08, 2009, 06:49:38 AM
I finished mine over the weekend. Probably a waste of time. All the connections looked fine.
I didn't disconnect the battery. I still need to erase the code and see what happens, but
I'm not expecting a change. Now that I did it I'm concerned that I could have caused problems
down the line if the gas tank needs to be removed. Some of those wires that are now hard
wired go to the gas tank. Hopefully they are into plugs on that side also.
I did try to follow the gas lines and see if I could find the charcoal canister and selenoid. I did
find a evap mechanism on the top of the engine. It looks like the others could be behind the wheel
well. If anyone knows where they are, I would appreciate the help.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Krovas on September 08, 2009, 02:12:53 PM
Something just occured to me: instead of cutting out the junctions altogether, why not simply relocate them inside of the vehicle, where they could be better protected from the elements?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: LUVmyTEK on September 22, 2009, 07:19:11 AM
I did disconnect the battery, always a good plan when working with anything electrical.

I did not remove the front seat. I took out the rear seats, removed the sill plate on the door, an pulled the carpet up usining a block of wood to hold the carpet up and out of the way.

I can only you tell you that it cured my evap code and engine light issues, and I had tried all the basic fixes for that code already. I didn't expect it to cure this but it was a pleasant suprise that it did. I was just tired of being stranded for no good reason on the whim of the truck.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: jaskispyder on September 22, 2009, 02:06:46 PM
Something just occured to me: instead of cutting out the junctions altogether, why not simply relocate them inside of the vehicle, where they could be better protected from the elements?

By the time you are doing this... the connections are bad anyway and have to be replaced.  Just easier to solder them together. 

J.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: djeviltwin on November 05, 2009, 01:44:44 PM
Doing mine tomorrow!  I have evap error, and stall/no start issues!  Easy fix!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: djeviltwin on November 06, 2009, 04:15:18 PM
Got it done!  The fuel pump lead broke off the body side as soon as I took it apart.  LOL  Wonder why I couldn't start the other night.  I reset my error codes, and I'm gonna go for a drive (in the rain) to see if they come back.  YAY

 :bow:Thanks for the walk through! :bow:


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: kevmc70 on November 25, 2009, 03:54:47 PM
We just bought our first Tek, a 01 model. We were already having issues the first week. My fiance' was afraid to drive due to being stranded 3 times already. I did the C305 ectomy today, my connector looked fine (lil moisture on body side). But glad i did, starts right up now and no evap code going crazy. Thanks    ;D


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on December 14, 2009, 03:58:46 PM
I'd hate to bring this back up, but what exactly is a C305 and what problems does it cause?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: jaskispyder on December 15, 2009, 11:02:37 AM
Fuel pump stops working, ABS light comes on (rear wheels), AWD light comes on, emissions evap code pops up... (just off the top of my head).

J.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on December 15, 2009, 03:17:24 PM
my ABS light comes on like its nobody's business. I guess I gotta do this sometime huh?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: 97drexelgrad on December 15, 2009, 03:20:40 PM
my ABS light comes on like its nobody's business. I guess I gotta do this sometime huh?

if that is the only light that you get, then it is most likely onlay a bad wheel bearing/sensor


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on December 15, 2009, 04:51:03 PM
my ABS light comes on like its nobody's business. I guess I gotta do this sometime huh?

if that is the only light that you get, then it is most likely onlay a bad wheel bearing/sensor

I have to get the sensor replaced at least once a year so far


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Frankasaint on January 02, 2010, 08:40:52 AM
Hi Alchemist

Such interesting photos! great work.

Loved the pictures with the phone handy, looked like you would be able to dial 911 if necessary  :bow:


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on January 27, 2010, 09:56:45 PM
Can I do that WHILE I am having the anti-lock and traction control problems, or do I need to get the sensors fixed first?

Thanks,
Sam


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: djeviltwin on February 09, 2010, 03:31:32 PM
Baron, sensor problems might be because to corroded plugs...  You might try this first.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on February 17, 2010, 05:21:26 PM
I NEED this answered, very important:

Do I do this to every harness that comes through that way?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: ar4s1 on February 17, 2010, 07:29:28 PM
Might be a better idea to LOOK at the plugs first to see if corrosion is an issue.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on February 18, 2010, 10:28:27 PM
and if corrosion IS an issue, than what?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on February 23, 2010, 08:03:54 PM
anybody know what to do in the event of corroded plugs?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: LUVmyTEK on February 23, 2010, 09:05:45 PM
you can try cleaning them and hoping for the best, that lasted about 3 months or so before I would have issues again. If you are going to go this route I recommend that you use an electrical contact cleaning spray as manually cleaning them may cause more damage than helping.

If it's wet and/or corroded go back to the beginning of this post and following the instructions. The only thing I would add is that I did not take the front seat out to do this, only the rear, after which I pulled up the door sill plate and the carpet, and used a block of wood to hold the carpet out of the way so I could solder and heat shrink the wires. Make sure when you do this that you are connecting the correct coresponding wires.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on February 23, 2010, 09:40:49 PM
you can try cleaning them and hoping for the best, that lasted about 3 months or so before I would have issues again. If you are going to go this route I recommend that you use an electrical contact cleaning spray as manually cleaning them may cause more damage than helping.

If it's wet and/or corroded go back to the beginning of this post and following the instructions. The only thing I would add is that I did not take the front seat out to do this, only the rear, after which I pulled up the door sill plate and the carpet, and used a block of wood to hold the carpet out of the way so I could solder and heat shrink the wires. Make sure when you do this that you are connecting the correct coresponding wires.

Yeah I was planning to do the ectomy regardless in order to prevent future problems. Do I do it to EVERY connector that passes through there? Did you use that mastik tape stuff? And lastly, do I just cut the harneses right of and solder? Thanks!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: LUVmyTEK on February 24, 2010, 09:37:59 AM
Do every wire there. All of them. I cut one at a time on each end of the plugs and soldered them together then heatshrinked each one individually.  I don't know what mastik tape is, I used heat shrink tubing. It's little plastic type tubed you need to slide over the wires before you solder them, then you heat the tube and it melts around the area you soldered and form a coating that will keep out moisture.

Again, make sure you are getting the correct wires together, the colors are close on some of them if I remember right, and I matched them by where they were on the connectors as I went.

When you have them all done wrap them in either tape or conduit and feed back thru then replace the metal plate.

Follow the instruction at the beginning, they are very good and very thorough.  I had no problem doing this myself using the information provided here. If you aren't comfortable doing, find a mechanic who is. It's not a hard job, just time consuming.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Python on February 24, 2010, 03:49:21 PM
Did GM fix this corrosion problem throughout the Aztek's lifespan or does it affect all 2001-05 models?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: LUVmyTEK on February 25, 2010, 08:32:00 AM
I really don't know the answer to that.

I did this on the 2003 I had, and it was definitely a problem with that one.

I haven't had any issues out of my new Tek since I've had it and so I haven't done anything to it either.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: ktntek on February 25, 2010, 08:33:15 PM
Last TSB that I found for this problem was dated Aug 29, 2006 and all it did was add 2007 models to the list of vehicles that likely will have the problem.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: LUVmyTEK on February 26, 2010, 01:27:59 PM
That would be a cute trick considering that 2005 was the last model year for an Aztek.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: ktntek on February 27, 2010, 10:24:01 PM
I guess I should clarifiy.......the Teks were not the only vehicle to have the C305 corrosion problem.  Buick Rendezvous & Terraza, Chevrolet Venture & Uplander, Olds Silhouette, Pontiac Montana, and Saturn Relay of years 2000 to 2007 were affected by the wonders this GM engineering.  I found it amazing that GM knew they had a problem but did nothing to change the design/engineering,  just add the next model year to the list of models with the problem.  The lastest TSB I could find was Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E dated Aug. 29, 2006.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: tanktek on February 28, 2010, 09:23:08 AM
Im probly 90 percent sure that my mother in laws tek needs this done to it. Heres her symptoms.

SES light on
Gas gage acting flaky. It goes from full to empty all the time. She just keeps it full.
Evap code
Oil pressure leak code
ignition sometimes doesnt want to crank over

Sounds like we get to do a 305ectomy whether we want to or not. What fun. :no:


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: ztheg1 on March 10, 2010, 06:14:03 PM
Did this to my tek today.  It fixed my gas gauge problem, sweeeet!

Any reason to think this might fix a misfire issue too?

~Zack


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Python on March 25, 2010, 11:24:14 PM
Hmm my gas gauge is acting strange since my last fill-up ... I've driven about 200km since the fill-up and according to the gauge I've only used 1/8 of my gas.  There is no way that's accurate...  Something funky going on.  Could a funky fuel gauge be a C-305 symptom?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on March 26, 2010, 01:20:26 PM
Traction, ABS, and Airbag lights are on. Is that C-305?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Python on March 26, 2010, 09:09:36 PM
Traction, ABS, and Airbag lights are on. Is that C-305?
Very well could be.  I know I will attempt to tackle the C-305 this summer just so I can have some ease of mind!

And as for my gas gauge ... all of a sudden it seems to be working?  I went over to Niagara Falls, NY today and it seemed to be going down as usual.  I filled it up when it got under the 1/2 mark though just to be on the safe side, drove back home, and it seems to be going down in a normal fashion.  Weird, maybe changing that fuel filter REALLY helped my mileage!!  :o


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on April 10, 2010, 04:32:29 PM
Traction, ABS, and Airbag lights are on. Is that C-305?

Sorry I haven't been on in a while to respond.  Been having some health problems and have not been very active lately.

The traction and ABS lights, most likely.  The Airbag light, probably not...  But there is a small possibility.  The C-305 connector routes connections for wheel speed sensors which are part of the ABS and Traction Control systems, fuel gauge, fuel pump power, and other signals and controls related to AWD.

Now, that being said, keep in mind that these signals connect back to the computer.  If there's a broken connection, or worse, a short between two of the connections that feed power into a line that is not supposed to carry power, there is no telling how the computer might react.  I would like to think that the computer is robust enough not to throw unrelated codes, but stranger things have happened.

ztheg1: This goes for the misfire as well.  If you're having cylinder misfires, then you need to have your LIM gasket and ignition system checked out.

tanktek:  Oil pressure leak code is most likely not related to C-305.  It'd say that is more likely LIM or the oil pressure sensor that sits under the left lip of the LIM behind the water pump.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Bill Salina on May 04, 2010, 10:17:29 AM
Great post and an awesome thread.  This is just what I was looking for.

My 2003 Tek ("The Warthog") has developed the always full fuel gauge problem.  It's gotten worse over time.  Initially it would happen when it was near empty, now it happens when I get below about 3/4 of a tank.

I'm planning to do the C305-Ectomy this weekend.  I might pull it apart before that to make sure I have everything I need (shrink tubing, tape, etc).

Thanks again for the great post and all the pictures!

Bill


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Bill Salina on May 06, 2010, 08:27:27 AM
Found the text of the Service Bulletin on Car Talk, thought it would be a good idea to post it here:

Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E

Date: August 29, 2006

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Hard/No Start, Fuel Gauge Inoperative/Fluctuates, SES/Check Engine Light On, ABS Warning Light On, TCS Warning Light On, TCS Activation, Service Traction System Message Displayed, All-Wheel Drive Disable Message Displayed, DTCs Set (Repair Connector)

Models:
2002-2006 Buick Rendezvous
2005-2007 Buick Terraza
2000-2005 Chevrolet Venture
2005-2007 Chevrolet Uplander
2000-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette
2000-2005 Pontiac Montana
2001-2005 Pontiac Aztek
2005-2007 Pontiac Montana SV6
2005-2007 Saturn Relay

Supercede:

This bulletin is being revised to add 2007 model year. Also, additional information was added to the Important statement. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-45-005D (Section 8 - Body and Accessories).

Condition

Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:

Engine is hard to start

Engine will not start

Engine starts then stalls

Fuel gauge is inoperative or fluctuates

Service Engine Soon/Check Engine light is illuminated

ABS Warning Light is illuminated

TCS Warning Light is illuminated

TCS activation

Service Traction System message displayed

All-Wheel Drive Disable message displayed

These conditions may be intermittent. Upon investigation, the technician may find various DTCs set.

Cause

This condition may be due to water leaking into the interior of the vehicle, and/or spread terminals, at connector C305 that is located on the floor to the rear of the driver's seat. This connector is not sealed from the inside of the vehicle and water may enter the connector causing the terminals to become corroded. Also, the female terminals of the connector may have become spread apart causing an intermittent poor connection.

Correction

Inspect the terminals at connector C305 for corrosion or spreading before replacing the fuel module or resistor card kit. Terminals can be accessed from underneath the vehicle.

Do not attempt to repair any spread female terminals as this will result in a return repair. The female terminal must be replaced.

If the terminals show signs of corrosion, determine the source of the water leak first and repair the water leak before repairing the terminals in connector C305. Refer to Corporate Service Bulletin Number 01-01-38-009A to determine a potential source for water in the vehicle interior.

Repair any corroded and/or spread female terminals in connector C305. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in the Wiring Systems sub-section of the appropriate service information.

Warranty Information







For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.



Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Pontiac6KSTEAWD on May 09, 2010, 01:12:56 AM
Last time I was at the dealer, they indicated that the C305 was going south. Right now it only has a extended start problem. I will probly just let it ride for the moment. C305 Connector replacement is in my future thou. But I do have an idea...


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Python on May 23, 2010, 08:30:41 PM
Heh, would you believe this ...

I went out and bought everything I needed to perform this, and was planning to do it tomorrow.  I took off some of the panels holding down the carpet to try and take a peak at it, and sure enough ... I think somebodys already fixed the darn thing.  Looks like the entire thing is taped up real good under there, the connector compartment, the wires, everything.  Crazyness.

Oh well, I got my reciept, back to LowesI go!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: LorneH on May 23, 2010, 08:44:55 PM
The Safety Bulletin is priceless:

Cause

This condition may be due to water leaking into the interior of the vehicle, and/or spread terminals, at connector C305 that is located on the floor to the rear of the driver's seat. This connector is not sealed from the inside of the vehicle and water may enter the connector causing the terminals to become corroded. Also, the female terminals of the connector may have become spread apart causing an intermittent poor connection.

Not sealed from the inside of the cab - guess steamcleaning every 4-5 months wasn't so good an idea. It would appear I will be removing and bypassing the C305.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Python on May 23, 2010, 08:59:37 PM
The Safety Bulletin is priceless:

Cause

This condition may be due to water leaking into the interior of the vehicle, and/or spread terminals, at connector C305 that is located on the floor to the rear of the driver's seat. This connector is not sealed from the inside of the vehicle and water may enter the connector causing the terminals to become corroded. Also, the female terminals of the connector may have become spread apart causing an intermittent poor connection.

Not sealed from the inside of the cab - guess steamcleaning every 4-5 months wasn't so good an idea. It would appear I will be removing and bypassing the C305.
Lmfao ... your post made me laugh.  Stupid design indeed.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on May 23, 2010, 09:27:45 PM
how does the back seat come out? and I just cut the wires from the harness and solder them together? should I disconnect the battery first?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Python on May 23, 2010, 09:42:51 PM
how does the back seat come out? and I just cut the wires from the harness and solder them together? should I disconnect the battery first?
You don't need to remove the rear seat do you?  Either way, just flip it forward all the way then pull up, it should come right out if I remember correctly.

Might be a good idea to disconnect the battery, because you never know.  Cut or pull out or whatever you feel like doing, doesn't really matter, as long as you have a wire on each end to solder together that are the same color ;) .


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: LorneH on May 24, 2010, 10:04:13 PM
The job is done and my P0449 cde didn't reappear after a 10 mile test drive (fingers crossed). I was very disappointed that my fuel guage continued to read full but later on saw that my trip meter (the alternate fuel guage for the past 3 years) was reading 3.2km. Spoke to my wife and, yes, she filled the tank this morning so maybe it is fixed, maybe it isn't - will se over the next few days. All that aside, it was a lot of fun actually doing something myself; couldn't hace done it without everyone's inputs from AFC, very much thanks.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on May 24, 2010, 10:15:02 PM
how does the back seat come out? and I just cut the wires from the harness and solder them together? should I disconnect the battery first?
You don't need to remove the rear seat do you?  Either way, just flip it forward all the way then pull up, it should come right out if I remember correctly.

Might be a good idea to disconnect the battery, because you never know.  Cut or pull out or whatever you feel like doing, doesn't really matter, as long as you have a wire on each end to solder together that are the same color ;) .

well its either that one or the front seat and I have NO clue as to how to remove that.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: yeti on August 24, 2010, 07:48:45 PM
My Tek has over 120k miles on her and I plan to keep her for about another 80k miles. Do you recommend I do this ectomy? I don't want anything to crap out on me somewhere down the road. My Tek is kept in the garage so the only time it sits out in the rain is when I'm camping. But it's still something to think about doing considering the amount of miles I plan to keep the Tek for.


i havent read the posts after this one... but i recommend changing the fuel pump before or during the ectomy process..... having that connected there made a huge difference in being able to change the pump.. BTW im not shure if my pump failed right after 200,000 miles or if it was the connector... but its running on the new pump and old connectors now, but i did try to clean them up before re connecting


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on October 01, 2010, 11:50:12 PM
why dont you guys just use butt connectors?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Trishay on October 02, 2010, 12:40:23 PM
butt connectors lol...couldn't help myself


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on October 02, 2010, 02:05:14 PM
butt connectors lol...couldn't help myself
lmao


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: 97drexelgrad on October 02, 2010, 11:12:03 PM
Then to worry all over again for the corrosion in and of the butt connectors


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on October 03, 2010, 08:18:42 AM
Then to worry all over again for the corrosion in and of the butt connectors
inside the car?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Python on October 03, 2010, 08:23:07 AM
Then to worry all over again for the corrosion in and of the butt connectors
inside the car?
As sad as it sounds, yes lol.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on October 03, 2010, 08:49:01 AM
Then to worry all over again for the corrosion in and of the butt connectors
inside the car?
As sad as it sounds, yes lol.

how would that happen? just curious


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Shintoryu1 on October 03, 2010, 02:01:59 PM
When I did mine, I soldered the wires, heat shrank, wrapped in electrical tape all the individual wires, then wrapped everything in mastic tape. Made sure all is protected for sure.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on October 03, 2010, 02:45:03 PM
Surely if everything is sealed good, than there wont be corossion of the connectors, right? I mean, I dont see how the elements could get into my car like that


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Shintoryu1 on October 03, 2010, 06:28:12 PM
Water splashing, hell condensation inside the connector will do it. Metal + water+ electricity= corrosion. GM dropped the ball with the connectors on the Aztek. But I would cut the whole thing out and do a straight wire through and solder them. Then so the 3 step process for making sure it's waterproof.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: The Red Baron on October 04, 2010, 02:23:38 PM
Water splashing, hell condensation inside the connector will do it. Metal + water+ electricity= corrosion. GM dropped the ball with the connectors on the Aztek. But I would cut the whole thing out and do a straight wire through and solder them. Then so the 3 step process for making sure it's waterproof.

water splashing into the car?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: 97drexelgrad on October 04, 2010, 04:02:39 PM
okay- snow/rain on boots/shoes of the driver, that melts onto the floor mats, then seeps into the carpet, and foam padding.-- My truck recently had a recall to remove some of said padding that sits above the SDM( airbag brain) since, the retained moisture could cause issues with the SDM.  BTW: the SDM for the Aztek is located under the front passenger seat- under the padding and carpet.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: alchemist on October 04, 2010, 07:45:39 PM
Surely if everything is sealed good, than there wont be corossion of the connectors, right? I mean, I dont see how the elements could get into my car like that

You're 'Tek obviously doesn't have the sunroof.  If you have the sunroof, water WILL get into the vehicle.  Repeatedly.

And as for using Butt connectors...  After removing the connectors, and leaving as much wire as possible, wiring is still very tight.  I don't think it would be possible to locate butt connectors inside the vehicle without splicing in more wire to gain the extra length and screwing up the color codes.  Plus on a connection that has to be 100%, 100% of the time I much prefer solder to a crimped on butt connector, spade connector or any other type of connector.  Solder it, Seal it, and Forget it.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Aztek-Knight on October 05, 2010, 10:58:01 AM
If you have the sunroof, water WILL get into the vehicle.  Repeatedly.
So true alchemist you hit the mark. My new off the lot Rally has had the water get in from time-to-time... EVIL ELEMENTS! :P


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: nimrodtoo on December 30, 2010, 02:11:54 PM
  So my daughter's 02 AWD has the dreaded full fuel tank, the ABS light , and the AWD light coming on after about 5 minutes of starting. I just performed a 305ectomy, and no change... bummer...  I noticed corrosion on only one of the connections and on one of the wires. So even though it didn't fix anything, thanks Alchemist, for the knowledge and documentation that gave me the confidence to try it. I did make a change anyone who is going forward with this may want to try.
   I took the 305 connector assembly, and since I was not planning on reusing it on another Aztek, I hacked off the body, made a couple of cuts, and used it as a collar to keep the wires off the metal edges and to seal it a bit. As you can see in the second picture, the metal cover would not closse all the way down, so a bit of caulk was used (around the wire bundles too) to help keep the innards dry.
   Hope this helps someone else......
    Nim

The modified C305.
(http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/8278/aztek3051.jpg) (http://img838.imageshack.us/i/aztek3051.jpg/)

As installed and complete.
(http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/93/aztek305done.jpg) (http://img809.imageshack.us/i/aztek305done.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: nimrodtoo on December 30, 2010, 09:10:02 PM
   Update, the ABS and AWD seems to have adjusted to the new configuration and is now working correctly. Now for the fuel gauge and the drivers side bun warmer and everything on this 161K 'tek will be working!!!!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: chiefkyle on January 30, 2011, 09:30:32 PM
Did the 305 bypass tonight. Was hoping it would get rid of the AWD Disable and Anti-Brake lights, but it didn't. :-(

Back story: Had Brake, Anti-Brake and AWD Disable lights on. I found a severed hub sensor (passenger rear) replaced the hub and that got rid of the Brake light. Tonight I did the bypass and hoped it would fix the other two, but it didn't.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: jaskispyder on January 31, 2011, 07:40:23 AM
Did you check to see if you had continuity in the wire going to the sensor?  Do you have a shop manual?  You could have a broken/bad sensor wire.  I had to replace a front one that looked good visually, but was bad internally.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: dcagedeagle on February 04, 2011, 06:31:38 PM
Hey 'Tekers:  Been stranded  ( due to malfunctioning fuel gauge) for the third and final time.  This will be my project once the weather dries up... if it does this weekend that is.  @Ach:  You are Awesome... Thanks for posting this!  Too bad you're not in North Carolina to offer a hand...  ;).


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: WaveMechanic on March 03, 2011, 04:16:33 PM
Score a big plus-one for Alchemist and the Aztek Fan Club - like many others I wish I'd found this thread sooner. After an expensive and unnecessary fuel gauge sender replacement, I still have P0449 (evap vent solenoid circuit) and P0452 (gas tank pressure sensor switch low) codes on my 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette. The Haynes manual doesn't identify or even mention this C305 connector: it took much fruitless websearching before I found this. On the other hand, maybe I should be grateful I haven't lose my fuel pump circuit too.

Hopefully this post will help others in my situation. As ktntek pointed out, many recent GM vehicles have this same lousy C305 connector in the same harebrained location as the Aztek. Thanks to Alchemist's invaluable pictures and CartierBear's harness pinouts (and no thanks to Haynes) I now have a starting point for a fix.

It also occurs to me than anyone can incapacitate most any late model GM vehicle with this body type by simply reaching under the vehicle and unplugging the female fuel system harness connector. Ridiculous, even for GM.

One last question for you admirable Aztek Experts: when I unplugged the fuel system harness connector from the underside of the van and checked for ignition voltage at the male pin 3G inside the chassis C305 connector (connected to a pink wire, powering the evap vent solenoid), I got nothing in any key position.

The Haynes manual says this circuit is powered through a 10A "Can Vent Solenoid" fuse, but no fuse with that name or anything like it is listed in either the underhood or passenger compartment fuse blocks. None of my fuses are blown, so I'm hoping it's the C305 that's bad - but can anyone answer how this circuit is fused on the Aztek, please?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: joshua_r_86055 on June 30, 2011, 07:39:44 PM
sorry to revive this thread, but after reading this, I couldn't leave without giving my thanks to alchemist, what a life saver fix that was  ;D


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: cndcreations on September 25, 2011, 10:15:14 AM
alchemist, I hope you read this because I am so very thankful for you taking the time to describe and put pictures up regarding this c305 fix.  Are 02 tek is currently are only vehicle and as such the only way my husband has to get to and from work.  We live on a very tight budget and try to fix anything that goes wrong on our own, but when the tek just quit a month ago we were lost.  After trying numerous things we finally gave up and took it in to a garage who told us it needed a new fuel pump at the cost of $750.  We brought her back home and started researching on how to replace the pump ourselves and that is when we stumbled upon your post.  2 hours later with just the cost of mastic tape and heat shrink tubes she started right up!!!  To think we had actually considered taking her to the scrap yard! You literally saved us and her.  Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: MOMSAZTEK on December 18, 2012, 08:19:22 PM
Something just occured to me: instead of cutting out the junctions altogether, why not simply relocate them inside of the vehicle, where they could be better protected from the elements?
 My evap vent solenoid is on top of gas tank on my wife's 2003 2 wheel drive Aztek. had code p 0449 and changed but still have code. IT looks like the c305 connector mod for me too.In Florida and its wet here  a lot.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: jazzmanmonty on July 23, 2013, 05:52:31 PM
Just performed the operation. Had to solder from underneath car, no lift. Why? Because I didn't feel like the extra work to remove the drivers seat lol. Good news is that my fuel gauge isn't sticking only to only full or near empty. BUT now it hops around all over, and sometimes stays around the 3/4 mark where my reading should be. So my question is does anyone know which color wire controls the fuel gauge? I tried shaking each wire a bit to try to isolate, but because wires so close together they all move, and gas gauge hops around.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: GH on August 09, 2013, 06:55:45 PM
(http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/91346802.gif)

(http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/91346803.gif)

(http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/91346804.gif)

(http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/91346805.gif)

(http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/91346806.gif)


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: hardwaregrrl on October 28, 2013, 04:47:30 PM
Again, thanks alchemist.....just finish my C305-ripotomy.  Check engine light came on today as I headed to the auto parts store.  I let out an evil laugh as popped up....yep, it's gone along with my AWD disable light!!!  Woot!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: shanon2k on January 10, 2018, 02:02:48 PM
Seriously.... photobucket is out of their mind!!!! Does anyone have the c305 hardwire pics....non photobucket... ($400 a year to use????)
Thanks!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Pontiac6KSTEAWD on January 11, 2018, 04:22:29 PM
I dont. And I tried every trick I knew to get those pics.

Some things I have located on the net...

https://sparkys-answers.com/2008/04/1998-pontiac-montana-fuel-pump-fuse.html (Pontiac Montana, same as Aztek)

The few things I remember from doing this years ago. The plugs are underneath the drivers seat, and the seat has to be removed. It does help to also have the drivers rear seat also removed. The -B- Pillar trim needs to be loosened but not removed. The door sills also need to be removed, and will never go back in correctly.Once those are out of the way, you can roll back the carpet, to reveal the C-305 connector. I used a drill to take out the rivet holding the tin plates in covering the back of the C-305 connector. I did it one wire at a time. Solder, dielectric grease, and heat shrink every wire. The dialectic grease to me is the most important part, it stops corrosion from getting at the copper wiring that you will be exposing when cutting the terminals out. I used a nut and bolt to put the plate back over the modified wiring to protect the new C305 connector.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: BlueGT on January 13, 2018, 01:53:37 AM
Good link to have Brian, thanks!

I completely bypassed mine, I didn't really have to remove the front seat or b-pillar moulding, just the sills, rear seat and the trim around the rear seat anchors, there was plenty of room to work with those out of the way after lifting up the carpet.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: shanon2k on January 18, 2018, 04:43:18 PM
Ok... I have a 2004...
The wiring on both sides of the connector do not match...😂
Some do. But there were several that had to do educated guess...
Any input.?


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Pontiac6KSTEAWD on January 26, 2018, 05:13:04 PM
If you match up the wire from the front to the back, and do it one wire at a time, you should be fine.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: BreakingBudget on March 18, 2018, 02:53:23 AM
This links to a screenshot of the Photobucket thumbnails for the photos that were once displayed in this great post.
(I had no luck embedding the screenshot. I hope a link to pasteboard is okay.)
http://pasteboard.co/HcrjLvR.jpg


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: fugpuppy on May 15, 2018, 04:13:31 PM
Hope this is acceptable
(http://i.cubeupload.com/upGf3z.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/upGf3z.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/J5LZmD.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/OzgZNB.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/0ttY8F.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/eRwmc7.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/KPswlz.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/GWeXs5.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/wOSPW1.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/bpUtgC.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/UMjh8A.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/jU0kgJ.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/kSQuid.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/4wLP36.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/JS0CvO.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/wdIJAc.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/8spteT.jpg)
(http://i.cubeupload.com/2qsiO4.jpg)


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Pontiac6KSTEAWD on May 15, 2018, 06:59:57 PM
Very nicely done


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Tronman on May 19, 2018, 12:37:02 AM
So while my engine is apart, and therefore everything under the hood is really easy to access, I decided to fix my ABS wiring.  I got two of the front harness connectors with wire pigtails from eBay for $28 shipped.  I really would rather use a local parts house but none of them had it, not even the dealer.  So.. eBay it was.  The right front wire came out in four pieces, and the left front wire connector had come out and been dragging the ground for some time.  Both fixed, soldered and heat shrinked, properly routed like the originals.  Now at the ABS computer connector, both front ABS sensor circuits present the proper ~1025 ohms resistance found at the wheel sensors themselves.  The rear sensors are open circuit, both of them.

So the first connector from the rear sensors going forward is the dreaded C305.  The female wiring harness plugging into it has the proper sensor resistance values for both rear circuits-meaning the sensors and wiring are good from the back wheels to this connector.  I'm just trying to work my way forward to find where the electricity stops flowing so I only have to dismantle one-the actually broken-wiring harness segment.

Between C305 and the ABS computer connector are two more connectors, C203 and C101.  None of the diagrams seem to tell me where these are actually located.  If I can avoid having to remove my drivers seat and all the carpet to manually trace the wiring, that would be great.  Can anyone tell me where these other two connectors are, so I can probe them to narrow down the fault for sure?

Oh, and epic thread by the way-thank you!



Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: BlueGT on May 19, 2018, 02:07:40 PM
C101 - I/P wiring harness to the engine wiring harness in the lower left side of the engine compartment, near the EBCM.

C203 - I/P wiring harness to the left side of the body harness. Left side of the steering column, above the left kick panel under the sound barrier.

Hope this helps.


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Tronman on May 22, 2018, 12:52:03 AM
That does help, alot.  Thank you!!


Title: Re: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
Post by: Tronman on May 24, 2018, 10:39:41 PM
So..  after replacing those front wiring connectors and harnesses, and simply unplugging and replugging all the other connectors, I started it today after fixing the heads *again* and hey..  the ABS and AWD disable indicator lights were both out!  Yaaay!!!

Then the oil was coolant orange again in about five minutes and there's a cam sensor trouble code..  but BY GOLLY THE ABS IS FIXED NOW.