C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)
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Author Topic: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)  (Read 88019 times)
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diceallion
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« Reply #15 on: August 06, 2007, 08:46:45 PM »

Damn to that connector, it is like such a vital part of the vehicle, but yet exposed to everything possible that could damage it.

Ron...  I thought about what you said, and was thinking it could be a good idea before our winters, but then Alch brings up some great points.  I will wait untill the rally and let hime redo all mine like his Tongue Tongue Tongue Tongue Tongue  RIGHT BUDDY OL PAL, lolol.
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Arie Ardasis
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2001 AZTEK AWD.  Sunroof, Electrical driver seat, Whole power group, 18" ENKEI racing mags, Pioneer DEH5900 Stereo with 4 6 JBL Grand Touring GTO627 speakers, 2 x 10" Pioneer 400 watt subs, Sony Xplod 400 watt 2 channel Amp, Lowrance IWay 250c GPS on dash, chrome AZTEK license plate frame, custom aluminum front grill, front AFC plate, Aztekfanclub.com windshield banner, rear glass DATEK logo, AZTEK vinyl on front door sills. westin safari light bar with PIAA lights, roof mountied light bar,
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« Reply #16 on: August 06, 2007, 11:31:45 PM »

I think I like your way better.....I have ordered and been waiting for awhile now, replacement male and female pins to rebuild the connectors.   Ectomy may be the better and longer lasting way to go.   Thanks for photos -- you make it look almost easy.
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alchemist
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« Reply #17 on: August 07, 2007, 08:25:17 AM »

Thanks for photos -- you make it look almost easy.

We'll see if I can do the same thing for the LIM/Head gasket replacement in a couple of weeks.  (Have to let me back recover from this job first.)

It really was a lot easier than I thought it would be though, since the wires were long enough to do the soldering from the cab side rather than under the car.  One thing I did not mention in the original posts is that a few of the wires had internal corrosion and the copper was almost solid black when I stripped the insulation.  I cleaned the wires with contact cleaner before soldering them, and the solder flux did a pretty good job of cleaning them too.  The only thing that was kind of difficult was that the passenger door was seriously in my way.  If could have opened another 10 degrees it would have been a lot easier.  As it was though, I was sort of bent at a really odd angle for the entire operation and now the right side of my body feels like a rubber band that is stretched too tight. 
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If you can't fix it yourself, redesign it since it was obviously poorly designed to begin with, otherwise you could fix it yourself.  Right?
Aztekkn
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« Reply #18 on: August 08, 2007, 06:49:48 PM »

Awesome job alchemist.
I especially liked the leatherman laying on the floor in some of the pics. Dead give away to a true ready for anything man.
I checked this connector on Aztekkn when I was having all my BCM problems, and it looks like it is brand new, inside and out.
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Burt Sherry - Tyrone Pa - 2002 Red Aztek AWD bought used 3/12/2007 with 60k
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c2grainger
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« Reply #19 on: January 02, 2008, 04:00:20 PM »

thanks for this posting.  Looks like I'm going there too.  On my way back from the milk run, (5 kids from Sept-Iles to Sherbrooke Qc.), the gas gage coudn't decide how much fuel I've got.  Now using milage to calculate. My symptoms are moving from full to where I think the real quantity is.  Engine off seems to be real.  I've checked it a few times since reading this.  I the plugged in the scanner and there are no codes stored.  It being -20C at the moment, I'll wait for better temps, or find a nice friend with a garage.  One thing missing in the post,  how much time did it take to strip down, and do the full job?  Would help me to plan the fix.  I'm not sure I want to give this to our dealer, as I don't seem to be satisfied with them. And it's something I can do.  Before I go inside I'll try to see if I can clean/dry from under the tek.  MY BCM's already been changed, and if it gives me the right level of fuel in off mode, I assume the sender is not in fault.

thanks again, C2G
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alchemist
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« Reply #20 on: January 02, 2008, 06:09:36 PM »

I've done so much more to the car since then I don't really recall exactly how much time it too, but couldn't have been more than about 2-3 hours from fully assembled back to fully assembled.  This will probably fix your fuel gauge problem, but I can't absolutely guarantee it.  Apparently there are some knows problems with the fuel sending unit, primarily as a result of some high-sulfur gas being distributed a couple of years ago that prematurely aged the fuel level sensor in the tank.  However, I would recommend trying this first since it is a relatively simple fix and, in my opinion, should be done to every 'Tek anyway to prevent issues in the future.  If your problems get as bad as mine did before the connector is removed you run the risk of having the corrosion creep up into the wires' insulation and then having to replace large sections of wire by hand or replacing the entire harness (big bucks).  I think if mine had been that bad I probably would have tried reconstructing the harness by hand rather than buying a new one from the dealer.  It's just wire after all.  Just have to make notes of the new color codes.

thanks for this posting.  Looks like I'm going there too.  On my way back from the milk run, (5 kids from Sept-Iles to Sherbrooke Qc.), the gas gage coudn't decide how much fuel I've got.  Now using milage to calculate. My symptoms are moving from full to where I think the real quantity is.  Engine off seems to be real.  I've checked it a few times since reading this.  I the plugged in the scanner and there are no codes stored.  It being -20C at the moment, I'll wait for better temps, or find a nice friend with a garage.  One thing missing in the post,  how much time did it take to strip down, and do the full job?  Would help me to plan the fix.  I'm not sure I want to give this to our dealer, as I don't seem to be satisfied with them. And it's something I can do.  Before I go inside I'll try to see if I can clean/dry from under the tek.  MY BCM's already been changed, and if it gives me the right level of fuel in off mode, I assume the sender is not in fault.

thanks again, C2G
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If you can't fix it yourself, redesign it since it was obviously poorly designed to begin with, otherwise you could fix it yourself.  Right?
jaskispyder
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« Reply #21 on: August 07, 2008, 06:22:20 AM »

Pulled my connector apart and water came out.  Lots of geen and very little copper Smiley 

I cleaned and reseated many of the pins, but the pins themselves are getting bad.  I figured it is easy enough to just bypass this whole thing.  I may look into buying new connectors at the auto parts store and make up a new connection under the aztek.  Just a thought though.

Bad design.
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alchemist
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« Reply #22 on: August 08, 2008, 12:34:48 PM »

It's really not worth the trouble of replacing the connectors.  It will just go bad again and the next time the wires may be to short to do the bypass without a splice.

Pulled my connector apart and water came out.  Lots of geen and very little copper Smiley 

I cleaned and reseated many of the pins, but the pins themselves are getting bad.  I figured it is easy enough to just bypass this whole thing.  I may look into buying new connectors at the auto parts store and make up a new connection under the aztek.  Just a thought though.

Bad design.
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If you can't fix it yourself, redesign it since it was obviously poorly designed to begin with, otherwise you could fix it yourself.  Right?
ryano
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« Reply #23 on: August 09, 2008, 01:43:45 PM »

It's really not worth the trouble of replacing the connectors.  It will just go bad again and the next time the wires may be to short to do the bypass without a splice.

Pulled my connector apart and water came out.  Lots of geen and very little copper Smiley 

I cleaned and reseated many of the pins, but the pins themselves are getting bad.  I figured it is easy enough to just bypass this whole thing.  I may look into buying new connectors at the auto parts store and make up a new connection under the aztek.  Just a thought though.

Bad design.

I concur.  I did an ectomy, and have been fine ever since.  alchemist is dead on here.  Use the solder, shrink wrap, and never worry again.
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bubbawilks
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« Reply #24 on: May 19, 2009, 09:08:54 AM »

My car would not crank one day recent, so I did this last night. Car cranked right up, never have to worry about it again. The connector was so corroded.. thanks for these posts!!!!!!
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swaggaty91
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« Reply #25 on: May 19, 2009, 10:11:14 AM »

My Tek has over 120k miles on her and I plan to keep her for about another 80k miles. Do you recommend I do this ectomy? I don't want anything to crap out on me somewhere down the road. My Tek is kept in the garage so the only time it sits out in the rain is when I'm camping. But it's still something to think about doing considering the amount of miles I plan to keep the Tek for.
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ryano
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« Reply #26 on: May 21, 2009, 07:11:02 PM »

It would give peace of mind I guess.  If you're comfortable with it, I guess it would be worth it.  I did mine out of pure necessity.
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swaggaty91
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« Reply #27 on: May 21, 2009, 07:36:38 PM »

I'll probably go ahead and do it. I hate when things wrong with the Tek. If that connector has a bad history in Azteks, and this seems like a 'somewhat' easy fix, I might as well next time I have a few hours alone with the Tek.
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alchemist
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« Reply #28 on: May 28, 2009, 08:17:25 PM »

I'll probably go ahead and do it. I hate when things wrong with the Tek. If that connector has a bad history in Azteks, and this seems like a 'somewhat' easy fix, I might as well next time I have a few hours alone with the Tek.

I'd say it's better to do it before you have any problems because you may get now warning at all.  The first time the fuel pump cut out on me I didn't realize it until I hit the gas and nothing happened.  I didn't even get any warning lights on the dash.  As far as the computer was concerned the vehicle was still running.  If I had been in heavy traffic I probably would have had a wreck.  As it was I had just enough momentum to pull into a defunct gas station and managed to coax it into working for just a little while longer.

I think the main problem is that the connector is close enough to the front wheels that it picks up all the water and crud thrown up by the wheels.  Even packing the connector with dielectric grease didn't help my issues.
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If you can't fix it yourself, redesign it since it was obviously poorly designed to begin with, otherwise you could fix it yourself.  Right?
swaggaty91
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« Reply #29 on: May 28, 2009, 08:45:00 PM »

Well, that's it. A new weekend project. Thanks for the info.
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