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Author Topic: C305-Ectomy (Lots of pics)  (Read 94564 times)
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alchemist
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« on: August 05, 2007, 07:47:27 PM »

Well, the 'Tek lives again.  C305 was indeed the source of the majority of my problems.  After the C305-Ectomy, my fuel pump started right up.

I promised a pictorial how-to, so here we go:

First pic is a shot of the interior with the two driver's side seats and the first couple pieces or molding removed:



Stage 2, the seat-belt mechanism cover molding is removed:



Stage 3:  Removing the rear seat bracket cover.



To snap the bracket out, you have to pry those two center tabs up to release a latch:



Stage 4:  Carpet removed over the evil connector:

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alchemist
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« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2007, 07:55:31 PM »

Stage 5:  Removing the connector.  Notice the two rivets. that must be pried up to remove the connector:



Stage 6:  Connector removed, and the two plugs from under the vehicle pulled up for easy access.



Stage 7:  Bypassing the connector.  The good news is that the wiring color code is the same on both sides of the connector.  In this view, one of the wires has already been soldered.  Not the piece of large heat shrink tubing I have passed it through in the lower left hand corner of the pic.



Stage 7A:  Second wire twisted together before soldering.



Stage 7B:  Wire after soldering.

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« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2007, 07:59:39 PM »

I love the second picture I noticed the umbrella was not there in the forst pic, made me laugh thinking you might have got a leak comming in... LOL, Sorry Alch, it was my thoughts.

On another note... Wicked cool to show how you gutted out the tek.  Are you finished?  I love the detailed work and images.  WELL DONE WELL DONE!!!
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alchemist
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« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2007, 08:07:57 PM »

Stage 7C:  Wire with it's heat-shrink applied, pre-shrink.



Stage 7D:  Wire shrink-wrapped.



Stage 8:  All 4 wires from the first connector finished.



Stage 9:  Complete connector is finally bypassed!  Hallelujah!!!!



Stage 10:  At this point, all of the wires were moved into the large piece of heat-shrink tubing from the Stage 7 pic.  The tubing has been shrunk, then wrapped with almost an entire role of self-amalgamating "Mastic Tape" (as Lowescalls it) has been wrapped around it.  The Mastic tape is sort of tar-like and makes a water-proof seal.  After the Mastic tape was applied, I wrapped the wiring with standard electrical tape.  Had to shorten the split loom tubing under the vehicle just a bit to accommodate the heat-shrink, but lo9oking under the vehicle the split-loom appears to merge directly into the splice.  In the cab, this is what you see:



Stage 11:  The connector all sealed up.  I used more of the Mastic under the 4 edges of lid plate and around the splice where it passes under the lip in the lid, then replaced the rivets with a pair of screws with lock-nuts under the 'Tek.  So now I'll never have any more problems with C305.

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alchemist
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« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2007, 08:14:04 PM »

I love the second picture I noticed the umbrella was not there in the forst pic, made me laugh thinking you might have got a leak coming in... LOL, Sorry Alch, it was my thoughts.

On another note... Wicked cool to show how you gutted out the tek.  Are you finished?  I love the detailed work and images.  WELL DONE WELL DONE!!!

Actually, the umbrella IS there in the first pic.  It's just from a slightly different angle, but if you look closely at the center console, you can see the wooden handle end poking out.  Fortunately I think I've got all the leaks fixed.  Today is one of the few days it hasn't rained in the last couple of weeks.
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« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2007, 08:18:17 PM »

Very nice! The photo essay is a great idea, thanks for sharing it!
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« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2007, 08:48:35 PM »

That's not blood on the second picture is it?

Dr. more suction please.
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« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2007, 08:56:15 PM »

That's not blood on the second picture is it?

Dr. more suction please.

Not sure what the prior owner hauled around, but the rear cargo area has several large bright yellow stains, and when I took out the driver's seat, there were several large bright pink stains under the seat.  Almost looks like bulk highlighter ink or something.

But speaking of blood...  I just realized I managed to complete the whole operation completely un-injured.  Not even a solder-burn.  I think that's a first for me.
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« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2007, 05:54:59 AM »

As my wife says did you get it done without any bad words?? HEE HEE FOMRCLMAO (still Elisha's fault)

Jack
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« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2007, 06:45:50 AM »



God i love this site
I know if my tek ever gives me trouble like stalling in the midle of nowhere i'm going for that c-305 connector first
I'm wondering if i shouldn't get under there and unplug it then fill it with greae and tre-plug it just in case to avoid having to work this out

What do you think Dice?
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alchemist
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« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2007, 08:25:44 AM »

Before all of this trouble, I would have said, yeah, that's a great idea, but now I sort of feel like that's a waste of time.  Apparently the plugs have a very finite life span to them.  Any unnecessary unplugging and replugging and the female connectors spread out and get too loose and stop making connection. (And yes, I tried every way I could think of to keep that from sounding dirty, and any way I put it, it just sounds about the same.)  Second, packing with grease will only protect the inside parts of the connector.  After disassembling mine, I found that the main corrosion was on the exposed parts of the terminals where the wires attach to the pins.  In fact, I didn't take a pic of it and wish I had, but the metal lid over the connector has a couple of burned places where something had obviously arced to it from inside the connector.  I can almost say with 100% certainty that my C305 failure was cause by the window being down during the rain storm the week before I bought the 'Tek.  The majority of the damage was on the interior side of the connector.



God i love this site
I know if my tek ever gives me trouble like stalling in the midle of nowhere i'm going for that c-305 connector first
I'm wondering if i shouldn't get under there and unplug it then fill it with greae and tre-plug it just in case to avoid having to work this out

What do you think Dice?

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If you can't fix it yourself, redesign it since it was obviously poorly designed to begin with, otherwise you could fix it yourself.  Right?
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« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2007, 09:08:01 AM »

THanks for the reply i remember looking underneathe te tek when i bought it last year and was thinking to myseld "who's the numbnuts who thought of putting a connecter there?"

Well we can count it as part of the engineering flaws of the Aztek



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Ron K. and family see my Gallery      http://www.aztekfanclub.com/photos/thumbnails.php?album=154
MAXI   01 'tek  Pewter grey AWD, ISB Package autostarter, alarm,  Tent,mattress,AFC banner back glass, AFC plate front,  rear inflator.
"The Ultimate family vehicle"

Tumbler '98 black Chevy Tracker

Boss 1990 34' Southwind Motorhome

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alchemist
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« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2007, 10:14:44 AM »

You know, I've been thinking about that connector ever since I first started having problems with it and I keep coming back to the fact that the 'Tek was designed completely on computer.  That connector reminds me of one of the bad decisions a circuit board routing program might make if you told it to do "shortest path" routing.  An intelligent engineer should have just brought all the wire forward, came up through the engine compartment and passed it through the firewall somewhere safe and waterproof.  We can't totally blame it on the computer though because the engineering oversight should have caught it and realized how phenomenally stupid it was to have a connector there, regardless of how waterproof it appeared to be.

THanks for the reply i remember looking underneathe te tek when i bought it last year and was thinking to myseld "who's the numbnuts who thought of putting a connecter there?"

Well we can count it as part of the engineering flaws of the Aztek

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« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2007, 10:26:37 AM »

That sucks  though i was wondering how to get the 2nd row trim pieces off.  I got the pinouts for those harnesses  for future reference i guess it seems not only is it fuel level but the wheel speed sensors go through it as well  may explain ABS or wheel bearing lights  i guess the axle actuater is a AWD thing  possibly is yours an awd alchemist i see you dont have a 3rd harness






« Last Edit: August 21, 2007, 09:33:07 AM by Intrepidcub » Logged
alchemist
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« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2007, 11:30:33 AM »

Mine is not an AWD.  I was right though...  The fuel pump power does go through that connector.  How stupid is that.

That sucks  though i was wondering how to get the 2nd row trim pieces off.  I got the pinouts for those harnesses  for future reference i guess it seems not only is it fuel level but the wheel speed sensors go through it as well  may explain ABS or wheel bearing lights  i guess the axle actuater is a AWD thing  possibly is yours an awd alchemist i see you dont have a 3rd harness
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If you can't fix it yourself, redesign it since it was obviously poorly designed to begin with, otherwise you could fix it yourself.  Right?
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