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Author Topic: BCM Blowing fuses  (Read 87 times)
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BPopilek
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« on: August 09, 2018, 10:05:05 PM »

Hello all! I'm looking for some help. I have a 2005 base model Aztek that I have owned for the past 4 years and my parents bought new. It has been a great car for my kids, with the exception of replacing multiple front wheel bearings, it has been a solid car. Until recently that is. My daughter was stranded the other night, and I found that the BCM fuse under the hood had blown. This happened once before about 6 months ago. I replaced it again and thought nothing of it. I at least showed her where it was and how to change it to be safe. Luckily I did because it has blown 3 times in the last 2 days.

I have read many forums and posts regarding bad BCMs on the cars. Is this problem a cause of the BCM going bad, or should I be looking elsewhere? Should I just try swapping out the 10 amp fuse for a 15 amp and see what happens? Or do I just pick up a used one at the junkyard tomorrow? And if a used one is installed, does it still have to be programmed by the dealer or is it possible to get lucky if I find one that has the same options as mine? I did try searching for this info, but was not able to totally determine what needs to be done or if this is even the cause of my problem. I greatly appreciate any help that can be offered! Thanks for reading.
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BlueGT
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« Reply #1 on: August 10, 2018, 01:14:07 AM »

Under no circumstances should you use a higher amperage fuse. It may seem like a good fix, but in short (pun intended) you can burn up the wiring if not the entire car.

It is rare but not impossible for the BCM itself to blow a fuse but I don't suspect that's the problem with yours.

You're going to need to try to replicate the conditions to cause the fuse to blow. The BCM controls a lot of functions in the car: radio, ABS, lights, horn, HVAC, keyless entry, ect. Does the car have an aftermarket stereo?

2005 was a fairly good year as far as reliability goes. The bad BCMs were mostly 2003-04.
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2001 Steel Blue Metallic GT 1 of 1956 FWD blue GTs.
lonewolf04
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« Reply #2 on: August 10, 2018, 06:17:10 AM »

Just to add to what BlueGT mentioned to look for. Do you have an aftermarket alarm / remote start on the vehicle? That would also be a culprit for BCM fuses to blow. The BCM itself on most failures would not cause fuses to blow, it would cause erratic operation of functions as I am sure you read about a lot of them.
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BPopilek
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« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2018, 08:47:48 AM »

I have both an aftermarket stereo and a remote starter. Both of which have been in the vehicle for the past 4 years that I have owned it. It has been driven by my daughter daily, and the BCM fuse issue just started a week or so ago. Bothe the radio and remote starter are still working fine. I just ran out and did a quick check, and the only thing that I can come up with is possibly the HVAC system. Now the fan is not turning on, and the AC has been working intermittently the past month or so. Could it potentially be a bad AC compressor drawing too much power? I'm more than willing to unhook the radio and disable the remote starter, but I honestly doubt it is either of those. Thanks for the tips so far!
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lonewolf04
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« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2018, 06:47:53 AM »

I would be more inclined to lean toward the remote start unit. Any wires that were spliced into were probably done with crimp ends so any moisture in the vehicle will corrode. Working in the field, anytime weird electrical issues happen the first thing that gets looked at is aftermarket units that get spliced into the harness. Not sure where you are located, but excess water likes to collect at the base of the center console by your feet, which is close to the BCM and harness. Live in the salt belt and it could easily be corrosion if you don't have good all weather mats to collect snow/slush/water. Even if you don't, it would be a good place to start. Pull the cover off on the drivers side center console and you will see the BCM and harness.

Most radio installers (that are reputable) will use a jumper harness from the main vehicle to the new radio harness, so they do not splice the vehicle harness. The radio does have its own fused circuit as well.

Is there a certain time this fuse likes to blow?

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BPopilek
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« Reply #5 on: August 15, 2018, 02:19:21 PM »

Any wires that were spliced into were probably done with crimp ends so any moisture in the vehicle will corrode.

I installed the remote starter myself. I have 20+ years experience with electrical and wiring to drawn from. And when it was installed, I used solder and heat shrink on all of the connections. It is tucked nicely up under the dash, so unless it is failing, the wiring should not be an issue. Plus this is probably the 100+ one of these I have done. I used to work for a car accessory company years ago and did installs.

Live in the salt belt and it could easily be corrosion if you don't have good all weather mats to collect snow/slush/water.

I do live in Michigan, and we love our salt here in the winter to be sure. I will check that later this week when I get a moment.

Most radio installers (that are reputable) will use a jumper harness from the main vehicle to the new radio harness, so they do not splice the vehicle harness. The radio does have its own fused circuit as well.

I am also the installer of the radio. Not only did I purchase the correct mounting kit, but I also soldered and heat shrinked a factory adapter to the Kenwood radio harness to prevent cutting any factory wires. So I doubt this is the problem either. The radio has always worked perfectly and never blown any fuses.

Is there a certain time this fuse likes to blow?

Nothing that I am aware of specifically. One time it was middle of the afternoon, the next was middle of the night after it was parked and shut off.

Thanks for the ideas! I haven't had a chance to touch this since posting because I have been working and fixing another car that I had to get running first. I plan on looking at it this weekend.
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