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Author Topic: Gauges or HVAC backlighting repair  (Read 18396 times)
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03Aztek
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« on: January 23, 2007, 07:41:33 PM »

My speedometer lighting went out after 60mph, and then the odometer lighting went out right behind that. I had the body shop take care of it, and before they found this guy, the only solution known to man was to replace the whole unit...guages or HVAC controls.....or live in the dark.

He replaces ALL the leds in the unit, even if only one is burnt out, as they all tend to go once one starts. He does great work, all my gauges light up brilliantly! All for only $100!! Much less than the cost of replacing it.

I called him and he does gauges and HVAC only, no stereos. I was hoping for that, but he doesn't.

EDIT: I'm bad about losing stuff, and over a year later I'm surprised I still have it, so here it is.

Digital Dash Solutions
(860) 583-0629
140 Frederick St
Bristol Conn 06010

Says there's a 1 day turnaround
« Last Edit: February 25, 2008, 05:20:01 PM by 03Aztek » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2007, 07:14:30 AM »

what area?
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03Aztek
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2007, 08:45:44 AM »

Connecticut
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« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2007, 06:39:22 PM »

are they actual leds?  or are they just the turn-screw type.  I recently bought a new ride, a '98 outback, and it had no hvac lights.  upon searching, i found this link: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91

I wonder how much different it would be aside from bulb sizes.  Maybe somebody with an S-manual can concur.

A little time (1hour), patience, and $3.50+tax, I now have hvac lights...
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« Reply #4 on: April 03, 2007, 09:14:17 AM »

Okay, I'm having an issue with illumination of the center console. At night it was impossible to see where the temperature sliders were located as the bulbs behind it had burnt out. Yesterday the illumination behind the right (air mode select knob) went out, so I decided it was time to do something about it.

I removed the plastic guard around the radio and controls by unscrewing the two torx screws at the bottom.

I then removed the blower control module (with the burnt out bulbs in it). After finding a very small nut driver, I was able to open up the module and get access to the lamps themselves.

There are six identical bulbs soldered onto the circuit board. Two of them are working and the filaments intact, the other four are bad. I desoldered the bad ones, and also removed one good one to get an idea of what I would need to replace them with (as these bulbs have no markings).

The good bulb measures 13.4ohms.

I am having trouble finding a bulb to replace these awkward size, awkward spec bulbs. Just to see how much it would be to replace the entire module, I called a Pontiac service station and they listed it as a $371 item... (AS IF!)

Seeing as I dont want to shell out mondo money there for such a minor (i cant see it at night thing) detail, I am going to see if I can replace the bulbs myself. I am looking all over but having trouble finding a supplier of these specific bulbs..

Does anybody have any ideas as to where to find a bulb like this?

I can take pictures of what I have done, the circuit board, and the bulb if you wish.


Thanks!
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97drexelgrad
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« Reply #5 on: April 03, 2007, 09:39:33 AM »

Welcome to the site Aaron.  Well it appears that you are the first one with the courage to tear apart those dash components.  I can't help you with the specifics of the bulbs, but I wonder what would be the fault now of just adding LEDS.  I don't know for sure that the BCM would have any issues but adding a LED with a resistor for that 13.4Ohms rating may be an easier fix than trying to hunt down that exact bulb.

Brian
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Brian, NJ
Current owner of 2011 GMC Sierra SLE Crew Cab 4x4 6.2 l
403hp 420tq

Former owner of a 2003 Aztek Yellow, McCullough HID 6000k Headlights, Xentec HID 3000K Yellow Fog Lights, LEDS on all 4 Markers and Reverse Lights, Recon Strobe Lighting, Pioneer 10 speaker stereo, Infinity BassLink2 Sub, Precision Interface Electronics GM12-AUX, XM Roady XT, Helo Tease Rims with General Exclaim 245/40ZR20 tires, EBC Dimpled & Slotted Front Rotors, EBC Yellowstuff Pads, K&N Air Filter, Remote Start, kids car seat, Custom Dual Exhaust , Recon Big Rig Amber Running / Signal LED Lights, Side mirror LED Signal Lights, Line of Fire and Ice Brake Light, Monro Air Shocks in Rear, B&M Transmission Cooler, Garmin NUVI 350 GPS,  LEDs everywhere, Rear camera with night vision and 7 inch color monitor, GM Hood Deflector, Diehard Platinum Battery, American Flag / Bald Eagle on Rear Window, Fleetwood Camper,with LEDs and camera also, towed behind Tek ,
 2006, 2007, 2008 International Aztek Rally Organizer.  Email me @ 97drexelgrad@aztekfanclub.com
03Aztek
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« Reply #6 on: April 03, 2007, 11:20:34 AM »

I'll give you that guy's information so you can call him and ask him his supplier. It's at home, should PM it to you sometime later tonight.
In the meantime, I would imagine some electronics shops should carry it, and of cousre there's always the internet.
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Sunroof, Kenwood KDC-MP628 with Sirius, front windows tinted, Kicker 15", 600w Infinity amp, hood scoops, custom dual exhaust with Comaro tips, 3 million color led underglow kit, Viper radar detector, cargo tray, GM Pontiac and Aztek logos on the doors, TomTom One, LED front and rear stop/tail/turn and dome lights, all this sittin on 20" American Racing Casinos

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« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2007, 08:03:17 PM »

If you want to preserve the life of those pesky irreplaceable dash lights, turn your dash light intensity down about four clicks from full bright.
My dash is still fully lit after 6 years and 60,000 miles just by keeping the intensity down a few clicks.

ANDE
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« Reply #8 on: May 14, 2007, 08:27:21 PM »

I do the exact same thing, anyway it is WAY to bright with it on to the max.  I like low red dim look.

If you want to preserve the life of those pesky irreplaceable dash lights, turn your dash light intensity down about four clicks from full bright.
My dash is still fully lit after 6 years and 60,000 miles just by keeping the intensity down a few clicks.

ANDE

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Arie Ardasis
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« Reply #9 on: May 15, 2007, 08:10:09 AM »

Connecticut

Is that part of the USA?HuhHuhHuhHuhHuh

Jack FOMRCLMAO
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« Reply #10 on: May 22, 2007, 09:04:09 PM »

Be nice there Jack,  :laugh:  hehehe.

Connecticut

Is that part of the USA?HuhHuhHuhHuhHuh

Jack FOMRCLMAO
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My Latest Project Visit my travel page @ www.1stoptravel411.com
Arie Ardasis
When the going gets tough, I get into my Tek!!!
Montreal, Quebec
- LONG LIVE THE A.F.C. -

                                         
Thank you AK
                                              
2001 AZTEK AWD.  Sunroof, Electrical driver seat, Whole power group, 18" ENKEI racing mags, Pioneer DEH5900 Stereo with 4 6 JBL Grand Touring GTO627 speakers, 2 x 10" Pioneer 400 watt subs, Sony Xplod 400 watt 2 channel Amp, Lowrance IWay 250c GPS on dash, chrome AZTEK license plate frame, custom aluminum front grill, front AFC plate, Aztekfanclub.com windshield banner, rear glass DATEK logo, AZTEK vinyl on front door sills. westin safari light bar with PIAA lights, roof mountied light bar,
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« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2008, 11:00:19 AM »

I have (currently) about 125,000 miles on my Az...I had a number of bulbs burned out.  So far none on the dash, but the radio, the HVAC controls.

I put LEDs in the HVAC controls in place of the bulbs (behind the temperature sliders).  Works well, although I admit they are a tight fit.

If anyone wants to try this, make sure you use resistors in series with the LEDs!

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97drexelgrad
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« Reply #12 on: January 13, 2008, 07:26:40 PM »

what size LED's and resistors did you use?
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Brian, NJ
Current owner of 2011 GMC Sierra SLE Crew Cab 4x4 6.2 l
403hp 420tq

Former owner of a 2003 Aztek Yellow, McCullough HID 6000k Headlights, Xentec HID 3000K Yellow Fog Lights, LEDS on all 4 Markers and Reverse Lights, Recon Strobe Lighting, Pioneer 10 speaker stereo, Infinity BassLink2 Sub, Precision Interface Electronics GM12-AUX, XM Roady XT, Helo Tease Rims with General Exclaim 245/40ZR20 tires, EBC Dimpled & Slotted Front Rotors, EBC Yellowstuff Pads, K&N Air Filter, Remote Start, kids car seat, Custom Dual Exhaust , Recon Big Rig Amber Running / Signal LED Lights, Side mirror LED Signal Lights, Line of Fire and Ice Brake Light, Monro Air Shocks in Rear, B&M Transmission Cooler, Garmin NUVI 350 GPS,  LEDs everywhere, Rear camera with night vision and 7 inch color monitor, GM Hood Deflector, Diehard Platinum Battery, American Flag / Bald Eagle on Rear Window, Fleetwood Camper,with LEDs and camera also, towed behind Tek ,
 2006, 2007, 2008 International Aztek Rally Organizer.  Email me @ 97drexelgrad@aztekfanclub.com
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« Reply #13 on: February 05, 2008, 01:08:28 AM »

I wish I could find someone in Ohio that offers this service. Currently, my tach and part of my radio is dark. I can live with it, but it would be nice to have a fully lit IP. 
This would be a great sideline for someone with electronic repair skills.
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« Reply #14 on: February 05, 2008, 07:51:34 AM »

I wish I could find someone in Ohio that offers this service. Currently, my tach and part of my radio is dark. I can live with it, but it would be nice to have a fully lit IP. 
This would be a great sideline for someone with electronic repair skills.

I am with you on finding someone in Ohio. Other then that we could spend a lot of money at local dealear or spend about 10 hours and 600 miles driving to CT. Dont know if it would be worth it with loss of time and gas. Does anyone know of anyone in Ohio that could fix the lights? I dont need someone right now but I have a few lights out and am afraid more will go out. Just want to have a plan just in case.
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