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Author Topic: 3.4L V6 Teardown Part 8 - Clearing Out Right Side Brace Area  (Read 7292 times)
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Wolfy1969
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« on: January 10, 2011, 11:22:41 PM »

At this point, if you have small hands, or great dexterity, you could skip past this to the section on removing the left engine mount bracket.  There are two LONG 15mm bolts on the top of the A/C Compressor that must come out and you can just barely see them let alone get to them with a ratchet with the fans in the way.  I can't do it at all.

Here's the bolts:



What's that? Can't see them, you say?  Here, look again...they're just barely peeking their heads out under that silver A/C line:



Plus, you have to get the bottom one out as well, which is why we took the baffle off in the last step.  This is also a long 15mm bolt:



If you can reach these from here, go ahead and take them out and let the compressor just lay on the bottom gently.  Then go on to the section on removing the left bracket and finally the front head.
I myself cannot get to these, and I have something on the radiator I want to check out as long as I'm this far in anyway, so I'm going to take out the fans.  

This is a little side trip that adds some time to the job, but in terms of easing your frustration level and tearing up your hands, it's worth the extra effort to me.  After I fought and fought with the fans the first time around, I found it was actually WAY easier to get them out by clearing out the side brace areas.  This is actually pretty quick and easy - I had the whole right side cleared out inside 15 minutes.  Really.  It's not that big a deal.

So, here we go...

Right Side Brace Area:



Start from the top by removing an 11mm (yes, 11 again) bolt holding the coolant recovery tank on:



With that bolt out, the tank just pops off the brace - there's two clips underneath that just straddle the brace:



Use a pair of pliers to loosen the clamp for the hose and take it off:



Pull the tank out (GOOD time to clean it inside and out!!!):



Hey, look at that - already we just have the brace and the air filter housing:



Remove these 2 15mm bolts at the front of the brace on the grille:



And this 13mm one at the back by the windshield...long extensions and deep well sockets help a lot here...also, that magnet on the socket trick works great for fishing that bolt out of there:



The black box in front is the cruise control module:



Take the brace out:



Just like that, we're down to the air filter housing.  BUT...the thing right on top is where the PCM is...gotta get that out first:



Loosen the 2 10mm bolts on the cover - these bolts stay with the cover and don't come out:



There are some tabs at the back of the cover to get out to get the cover completely off.  Just help the cover off gently with a flat blade screwdriver:



VOILA!  Meet your Powertrain Control Module (PCM) - the computer that runs your engine:



It's just sitting in there - nothing's holding it in, so just pull it out:



We'll come back to him in a minute - for now, just move it out of your way.

Now, you see the empty air filter housing:



There are 3 10mm bolts holding this housing to the frame.  Remove them all.  I had to use a long and a short extension plus a deep well socket to get all the way down there and still have clearance to spin the racthet:



Air filter housing out:



Air filter side:



Fender side:



That's it - that side is completely cleared out:



Fender air inlet:



This actually took more time to type up and link to the pics than it did to do it. It goes really fast.  Having all that empty space gives you room to get the huge fan shroud out.

What's that?  The PCM?  I said I'd get back to that?  Oh yeah...you want to know what's inside the box?  What it looks like?  You want me to take MINE apart so you can see?  Well, ok...sure, what the hell...car already doesn't run, right? lol...

OK, so after getting the air filter housing out, you can just lay the PCM back in that spot so it's out of the way:



But, since you asked....here we go...

Loosen the 2 7mm bolts holding the wire harness connectors on.  These again do NOT come out, the just loosen until you can pop the connectors off.  Notice how one is CLEAR, the other is BLUE:



PCM out of the car, looking at connector end:



Remove the 4 T-25 Torx screws holding the top on:



And pry off the cover.  Technically, this is the bottom.  It's mounted upside down so the components on the top of the PC board get cooled by the air intake.  Hang on to that white rubber gasket - it needs to go back on to seal dust out:



6 T-20 Torx screws hold the PC board on - there are 2 short ones that go at the connector end - the 4 longer ones are in the back.  Lift out the board leaving an empty housing:



And here are some views of the top of the PCM:











Now, put it back together before you spill something all over it.......









« Last Edit: January 14, 2011, 11:51:48 AM by Aztek-Knight » Logged
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