Welcome to the site! Take a minute to register and join us. It's FREE! (and fun)
The ORIGINAL Aztek Fan Club Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?
Always stay logged in

Login with username, password and session length
Home Gallery Help Login Register
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Author Topic: 3.4L V6 Teardown Part 6 - Back Cylinder Head Removal  (Read 12306 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
100 Club Members
Offline Offline

Posts: 197

« on: January 05, 2011, 03:58:04 PM »

FINALLY, the back head.  There are 8 15mm bolts holding the head to the block.  Loosen these evenly a little at a time so as to not warp the head (any worse than it may be)..DO NOT REUSE THESE BOLTS!!!  They are designed to stretch when torqued down and once torqued are useless.  ALWAYS buy a new set of head bolts whenever these are removed.

4 of the bolts are inside the head, the other 4 are just outside it.

Once all 8 bolts are out, the head is just sitting there on its own weight.  It will lift off, BUT remember, even though we've removed the manifold nuts, the studs are still poking through it.  So you'll need to do kind of a lift up and towards you type moving to get the studs to pull through the manifold.  I also found it helpful to let the ratchet strap go all the way loose to have some wiggle room to be able to move the whole engine a bit to get those studs to pull through the manifold.

Once you're free of that, take the head out and put it on your bench.  They're a little hefty, but nothing like old heads used to be.

Back head out of engine:

Front side of head, or the side that faced the firewall, showing the manifold studs and the manifold gasket (again, brand new one):

Right end (as installed on engine) showing bracket heater inlet tube was mounted to:

Top shot - you can still see some of the Dexcool/Oil sludge in the top of the head even though the heads were cleaned out before.

Close up of the 1st three rocker arm bolt holes where my problem is...The first on the left is what I thought was the worst problem because that's the one I oblonged the hole on and had to use an oversize helicoil.  That one stayed in place, but was easily flipped up and down by just finger pressure.  The 2nd hole is the one that had the sideways rocker arm.  When I compare to the factory holes, I can easily see why - I didn't drill deep enough.  The first threads on my helicoiled holes are at the top or just below it.  On a factory hole, the threads don't start until quite a ways down in the hole.  So, when my threads stopped, they weren't down enough to hold the arms solidly in place.  This was caused mainly because with the head in the car, I couldn't see what I was doing.  Now, with the head out of the car, I may have someone look at it and see if in fact, these can't be re-drilled to the correct depth and new helicoils put in and the head re-used.  If not, I'll just get replacement heads.  

Right 3 arm holes.  The first one you see on the left is the one done by a shop years ago...even that one has the threads way up at the top...Look at the last one on the right..that's a factory hole - see how far down the threads start?

Rear exhuast manifold gasket just slides off the studs:

Where the head used to be...manifold is in back, cylinder holes below. Pistons in side.  If you're going for head gasket replacement, there it is, right on top...just lift it off.  Even though I'd drained the coolant, there was still some in the head, and when I moved it around and then lifted it off, I found a bunch of coolant sitting in the cylinders.  I just used rags or a lot of papers towels to soak it all up and dry it off.

Backed up shot of what the entire engine looks like now:

« Last Edit: January 06, 2011, 09:38:58 AM by Aztek-Knight » Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Jump to:  

Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2013, Simple Machines
Theme Underground Yellow