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Author Topic: 3.4L V6 Block Teardown Pt.4  (Read 3536 times)
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Wolfy1969
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« on: May 29, 2011, 12:36:30 PM »

So, after seeing the main caps and bearings are worn, but otherwise OK, I want to get the rod caps off next.  I took a side trip at this point and turned the engine right side up, and tore it down to the block again as per my other teardown thread.  I won't repeat all that here except to say that of course it was MUCH easier and quicker to do out of the car on a stand.  I think I had it torn down inside an hour this time because I've done it so many times already, all my fasteners were new or loose (as in non-corroded or rusted), and it being on a stand where I could get at everything easily. 

I'll pick up this teardown where I started taking things off the front end, starting with the harmonic balancer.  First, I removed the large center bolt.  Next, I bought a balancer puller from F&F for I think around $25-30.  It comes with a selection of different bolt sizes and threads and you find the ones that fit your balancer.  In this case, there's 2 sets of brass bolts - one fine and one coarse thread.  The coarse thread ones were the ones that fit.  You thread them through the 3 holes in the puller to the balancer.  Then, you pull off the cone shaped tip of the center bolt and press it back on behind the puller.  It seats into the center bolt hole of the balancer.  When you start turning the center bolt of the puller with a socket, the cone end seats into the center bolt hole and provides leverage to the outer three bolts to evenly pull the balancer off the crank end.



Balancer off.  I inadvertently broke the housing for the crank position sensor because of all the sludge and oil there, I didn't notice it until I heard it snap. It's getting replaced anyway.

+

Balancer on the bench with puller still attached - large center bolt right above it.



Next, I went after the water pump.  First, remove the 4 bolts holding the pulley on:



Next, there's 5 small bolts holding the pump to the block - take those out and pump pulls out:



Pump, pulley and pulley bolts on the bench:



I guess I got ahead of myself procedure wise in that I tore the top end down to the heads and LIM instead of to the block and now I remember why.  I figured I'd get the front end cover off first so I can get to those diagonal lower intake bolts easier.  In the process of doing that, since the engine was on a stand, I was able to take the entire exhaust manifold off as one big U:



This is the pic that reminded me I still had the heads and LIM on.  Next step is to get all the bolts off the front (timing) cover.  Yeah, I got a little happy with the orange gasket sealer on the water pump...I'll be more careful this next time.



Front cover bolts out.  Due to the oil build up on the engine, if you compare this pic to the one above, you can really see all the shiny areas where the bolts are that need to come off.



Front cover off and on bench showing the inside of it:



Front cover off and there's the timing chain, gear, sprocket, and damper:



I'm not sure why, but there was quite a bit of play on the left side of the timing chain:



Here I've pushed it against the damper like the other side is:



The right side was tight against the damper - I couldn't even pull it away just a little bit:



Here's where the water pump pumps water into the block:



Engine front :



Crank position sensor and bracket on the bench:



Now, I can very easily get to those diagonal LIM bolts:





And a socket will easily reach the other 2:



Here, the heads and LIM are off, the timing gears and chain are off, and the block is upside down in the stand.  To get the timing set off, just remove the  large center bolt in the top gear.  The gear and chain slide right off.  I bought a gear puller thinking I'd need that to get the bottom sprocket off the crank, but it just slid right off with no effort.





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